alignment help
I wouldn't suggest trying front toe-out unless you're a champion level autocrosser looking for even quicker rotation. You already get some front toe-out during during braking from bushing flex.
Reducing rear toe-in would be a better idea but my car and my driving style works best with Shop Manual toe-settings front & rear on the tracks I drive the most.
Reducing rear toe-in would be a better idea but my car and my driving style works best with Shop Manual toe-settings front & rear on the tracks I drive the most.
this is what i thought.
after coilovers install and drop i lost my fast turn in.
front camber already biggest than rear (2.2/1.9).
i put quite a lot of toe out at front - still not the same...
what can i try else?
tires are oem ap2 size.
after coilovers install and drop i lost my fast turn in.
front camber already biggest than rear (2.2/1.9).
i put quite a lot of toe out at front - still not the same...
what can i try else?
tires are oem ap2 size.
Did you reduce your front spring rate?
This is what I suggest for maximum grip on a car without camber-adding ball joints:
Front:
Have the mechanic set the front camber adjusters to max negative camber and leave them there--no more adjustments necessary unless he has to back off a little to equalize the settings with the other side of the car.
Then set caster to the stock setting (6 degrees for the AP1).
Repeat this on the other side of the car and make sure the settings are the same. Then set the toe to 0.
Rear:
Set the camber to match what you got up front and use the stock setting for toe-in (0.25 inch total AP1).
I'm in the process of doing a how-to on alignment. It's not finished but it's here: http://robrobinette....00Alignment.htm



Front:
Have the mechanic set the front camber adjusters to max negative camber and leave them there--no more adjustments necessary unless he has to back off a little to equalize the settings with the other side of the car.
Then set caster to the stock setting (6 degrees for the AP1).
Repeat this on the other side of the car and make sure the settings are the same. Then set the toe to 0.
Rear:
Set the camber to match what you got up front and use the stock setting for toe-in (0.25 inch total AP1).
I'm in the process of doing a how-to on alignment. It's not finished but it's here: http://robrobinette....00Alignment.htm



Originally Posted by Croc' timestamp='1311624388' post='20813752
this is what i thought.
after coilovers install and drop i lost my fast turn in.
front camber already biggest than rear (2.2/1.9).
i put quite a lot of toe out at front - still not the same...
what can i try else?
tires are oem ap2 size.
after coilovers install and drop i lost my fast turn in.
front camber already biggest than rear (2.2/1.9).
i put quite a lot of toe out at front - still not the same...
what can i try else?
tires are oem ap2 size.
I've run the gamut of rear toe settings (0.15deg total to 1.05deg total) on my stock-suspension AP1, and in my experience, more toe sucks. BAD. The car handles MUCH more linearly and predictably with MINIMAL rear toe, in the 0.15 - 0.3 degree TOTAL range. Too much rear toe (imo anything over .4 degrees total) and the car becomes more twitchy and unstable in a straight line, while at the same time becoming more reluctant to turn in when you want it to.
At UK spec levels of rear toe (the spec calls for 0deg 40', or 0.67degrees total), the car starts to really handle like an evil little bitch. The back end will dance around over the slightest undulations, and in the wet/standing-water. Any difference in grip or load between the rear tires results in rear steering. Then when you want the car to turn in, it just wants to go straight.
When I started tracking my AP1, I ran at the max end of the US spec range, 0.64deg in the interests of ensuring neutral handling, based on reports of massive oversteer. I found that the car behaved as spookily as reported. After toasting the rear tires in only a couple of events, I felt I *had* to have it dialed down in the interest of rear tire life. I asked the alignment shop for 0.15deg per side, or 0.3 total, but instead they gave me 0.15 total. I was really concerned that that the handling would become way more twitchy and unpredictable, but lo and behold it handled more linearly and predictably, MUCH more so than with .64deg total. The back end felt a lot more stable and planted, while at the same time turn-in response improved (in a good way). It felt a lot more like a "normal" great-handling car, and less like it had a mind of its own.
In my experience, excessive rear toe is bad for everything, good for nothing.
Bad for tire wear, bad for stability, bad for mileage, extra drag down the straights.
So anyway, I'd recommend rear toe in the 0.2-0.3 degrees total range (.1 - .15deg per side), and not more than 0.4degrees total (.2deg per side).
At UK spec levels of rear toe (the spec calls for 0deg 40', or 0.67degrees total), the car starts to really handle like an evil little bitch. The back end will dance around over the slightest undulations, and in the wet/standing-water. Any difference in grip or load between the rear tires results in rear steering. Then when you want the car to turn in, it just wants to go straight.
When I started tracking my AP1, I ran at the max end of the US spec range, 0.64deg in the interests of ensuring neutral handling, based on reports of massive oversteer. I found that the car behaved as spookily as reported. After toasting the rear tires in only a couple of events, I felt I *had* to have it dialed down in the interest of rear tire life. I asked the alignment shop for 0.15deg per side, or 0.3 total, but instead they gave me 0.15 total. I was really concerned that that the handling would become way more twitchy and unpredictable, but lo and behold it handled more linearly and predictably, MUCH more so than with .64deg total. The back end felt a lot more stable and planted, while at the same time turn-in response improved (in a good way). It felt a lot more like a "normal" great-handling car, and less like it had a mind of its own.
In my experience, excessive rear toe is bad for everything, good for nothing.
Bad for tire wear, bad for stability, bad for mileage, extra drag down the straights.
So anyway, I'd recommend rear toe in the 0.2-0.3 degrees total range (.1 - .15deg per side), and not more than 0.4degrees total (.2deg per side).
hey guys update
so im runin -2.2 front -2.8 rear camber everything else is stock setting. its been a lil over 500 miles and she grips so freakin well. havent pushed her too hard been havin crappy weather plus still getting used to her been out of an s2k for the past wo years.
p.s. car looks more agressive with the added camber in the front
so im runin -2.2 front -2.8 rear camber everything else is stock setting. its been a lil over 500 miles and she grips so freakin well. havent pushed her too hard been havin crappy weather plus still getting used to her been out of an s2k for the past wo years.
p.s. car looks more agressive with the added camber in the front
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