Ok thanks for the tip, looks like I'll take the current rear tires and move them up front then buy some 245's for the rear since I plan on keeping the Muz bar up front.

The only thing that was keeping me from doing that is a knowledgable local member (actually previous North TX club president) mentioned that running such a wide tire (225) on a narrow 6.5" wide factory wheel causes very premature wear down the middle due to excessive bulging.

He also said that the difference from a 225 to a 245 is something like 9% and no one can actually use or feel the difference between the slight increase in width.

 

More likely, the rear rubber bushing on the lower control arm has started to creep. I've found that auto-xing every weekend during an Upper Mid-west season, I get two years tops out of lower control arms, probably more like 1.5 years.

Thread & pics showing the first time I found this:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=165828
That was back at the end of 2003. I replaced them again at the end of 2005, but they were probably bad when the season started, as I could only get 3* of caster back then. Both times after replacing the LCA, I could get 6* caster and -2* camber.

Steve

 

Thanks for the reminder to check these bushings!

 

No problem with middle wear. Yes, technically, the tire is too wide for the wheel but apparently the steel tread bands help keep the bowing to a minimum. I've seen people use 245s on the front with normal wear. Lower front pressure will likely be needed, however, so keep an eye on things.

Can you feel the difference? That's like my ascertation that a <4% diameter difference between the 245/45 and 265/45 can't be felt. I know there's a difference in acceleration but it is offset by additional traction (in my opinion). The extra width on the front may allow you to be just a tad more agressive, eliminating a small amount of understeer that a narrower tire might allow.

You pays your money and you makes your choice...

 

Update:

Last week, I took my tow hitch brackets off and put the OE front sway bar back on, and took it to the Honda dealer. (I feel guilty about being deceptive, but I know that autocrossing had nothing to do with this problem).

They were unable to bring the car into spec alignment, and made an appointment for me to get it fixed at their body ship later this week. The technician noted a possible sub frame and control arm problems.

The good news is that Honda is standing behind the car, and is going to fix it, even though it has been two years. I am both surprised and happy.

Question:
I had checked the subframe and it seems to be aligned properly on the frame. At least the alignment hole in the subframe aligns properly with the alignment hole in the frame (on both sides). I'm just wondering if it is possible or advisable to intentionally move the subframe forward on the frame to make a large change in caster and then fine tune it with the normal adjustments. Or does that create issues with the engine angle or any other problems? Thanks!

 

Update:

Got the car back from the body shop today and immediately took it for a racing alignment. I was able to get 5.9* caster with -1.4* camber in the front. I've got the back set to -2.3* camber (edited). 0 Toe in front with 1/4" total toe-in in the back.

I'm excited. Handles great! No more twitching over bumps. I'm very happy that my Honda dealer stepped up and fixed this, even though it has been two years.

As an aside, I had driven another s2k at the most recent autoX, since mine was in mid-alignment at the time. Man was it fun! I had no idea that I was missing out on so much! I can't wait for my next autocross now that I've got it all straightened out!

 

Hopefully that's 2.3* camber, not caster...

 

Tire pressures depend on the kind of tire you have on the car. hoosiers need more pressure than say Toyos.

 

[QUOTE=jguerdat,Mar 25 2006, 10:53 AM]Hopefully that's 2.3* camber, not caster...