GT Motoring

Your caster settings also affect your dynamic camber when turning. I had to back mine down to 5.4 from nearly 8 to get the car to stop pushing when running -3.4 camber up front.

*edit* - keep in mind that as your driving evolves, so too will your setup. If you want to keep autoxing competitively but do some HPDE here and there, Id keep your preferred autox setup and only change easy settings like sway bar settings and settings on your Club Sports. A good track alignment isn't goint to excel on track, and a good track alignment isnt going to excel at autox. The two disciplines just call for much different specs.

JJ7

Thats interesting that you were losing front grip. I backed mine down from 7.7 because it was causing the car to jack too much.

berny2435

Maybe my caster was measured wrong at the last alignment but it was around 6.5 to 6.8 on the front and the alignment before that was an old school string method but I told them to give me as much caster as they could with -2.9 to -3 camber. Maybe I need to drive someones car with less caster to see if I like it. It doesn't seem to re-center very well where it is with my 255s or my DD setup with 215s. It's a tad better with the narrower tire as you'd expect. Maybe I'm just too new to the car.

GT Motoring

With less caster you lose steering feel. It took me a few days to get used to. The rack in the AP2 is slower than an AP1. Steering will be more sluggish with the 255s vs the 215s. Offset of your wheels can affect this to a minute degree as well.
6.5 to 6.8 sounds about right. That's not out of the ordinary. My car was quite low with -3.5 camber up front to get to 8 degrees of caster. I'm sure a few things are bent up on my car too

GT Motoring

I was plagued by understeer most of the season. I couldn't figure it out. Finally, talking to Aaron (cuonice) at the Winning Formula down in KY, we decided to try less caster and low and behold it fixed it. It always seemed the more steering angle the car had, the more it would push. Made a lot of sense once he brought it up. I hadn't even thought of it.

berny2435

If science of speed measures my caster under 6, I'll bump it up around 7 if they can.

Ima tell them to shoot for -3 front, -2.7 rear, zero front toe, 1/8" in max rear and 7 caster.

still undecided on the tires but I guess the track is hard on the left tires. Push comes to shove, I guess I could swap sides and run them in the opposite direction.

thehillshavestis

this is all great info for me as well. i have stock bars with square 255 rs3's with ksport coils (bought the car with them) i set my alignment to -2* camber up front and -3* out back, with rear tow at 1/8'. car handled great at the glen last september. is there a reason you run less rear camber then front? my searching as brought me to thing it would push more with that set up.

im always looking for insightful set up info

odb812

Increasing front grip in relation to rear will cause the car to push less and adding more negative camber in front with no change in rear is increasing front grip relative to rear grip.

GT Motoring

As long as it's not raining, you can run them backwards no issue. I do this a lot with the RS3s - prevents heavy feathering

GT Motoring

Set up is a very personal thing. You could drive my car and hate it, but for me it work. It all comes down to driving style and skill level. If you like the way your car handles right now, I wouldn't touch a thing. Its when the car starts doing things that you dont want it to that its time to re-evaluate your setup.

This is why I advise everyone to not worry about settings when going to their first (or first few) track days. One setup that works for someone might not work for someone else due to skill level, driving style, etc. It's like asking someone what type of person you should marry when you haven't even dated anyone.