Recently installed the BuddyClub coilovers. Specs *before* the install were:

-1.2 F -2.2 R 0 toe F slight toe in rear

I asked them to max the caster - IIRC it was roughly 6.5

Lowered ~1"

Pretty neutral right now with the stock bars and 225/255 17" Victos.

Lots of wear on the outside edges - not much at all on the inside edges. Same is true for my street tires.

The car is *not* a daily driver - so tire wear is not really a concern.

Is more negative camber better? Should I push the envelope and go for -2F -3 rear or is that unnecessary?

Thanks in advance!

lig

 

-2 will be about the max you can get in front.

and yes if your tires aren't wearing even you need more. You aren't running very much right now.

 

Thanks, Rylan. The one guy beating me in Improved A is running 3.5 degrees in front with 255 Victos all around (M Coupe)

His car is in his words - "set up perfectly"

Joe Goeke jumped in and co-drove that car at one event and promptly set FTOD.

I'm going to need all the help I can get.

The last place that aligned my car couldn't dial in any more than 1.2 (I had asked for 1.5)

 

thats an M coupe so what he runs has nothing to do with you. a camber setting is going to be based on a number of variables and suspension geomtry and tire types are the biggest of them. You can't copy what someone else in a totally different car does. So don't even try

they can get you closer to 2 but you have to sacrifice caster.

 

Go to a different shop. You should be able to get more front camber with the 1" drop. Probably close to -2.4 to -2.6.

 

no way. You can't get that much camber in front. even lowered. I was never able to get more than about 2.1-2.2

 

The way the caster and camber are set on the S2000 you can't get max positive caster and max neg camber at the same time- it's a tradeoff. If you asked for max caster and got 6.5 degrees, you may not be able to get more than about a degree or even less of neg camber. If a place is having a hard time getting above -1.2, tell them to set the camber to what you want first and then get as much caster as possible *at that setting*. You should be able to get ~ -2.0 and still have over 5 degrees of caster.

As for comparing to the M Coupe, there are a lot of variables. The M Coupe has struts up front don't have the same dynamic camber curve as the control arm layout on the S2000. The wishbones actually gain negative camber as the suspension compresses, so you don't need or want as much static negative camber. You only want as much as you need- any more and you'll waste the insides of your street tires and possibly hurt braking performance.

There are other variables too- type and size of tire, surface conditions, suspension stiffness, and driving style all determine what kinds of roll angles you will get and how much camber you need.

I'd say first go back and check how much you actually have with the new setup, then try -1.5 to -1.75 in front and see how it works. A tiny bit of toe out in front may also help you use the insides more. Are you wearing the outsides of the rears also? You seem to have plenty of camber back there unless it has changed. I'd be surprised if that was the problem. What kind of pressures are you running?

Peter

 

Well Tony got -2.5 on mine, so take it up with him

BTW, I am lowered ~3/4"

 

Wearing the outside of the tire with -2.2 camber? That is the opposite of the wear I have. My rear is lowered about 1"-1.25". Small amount of toe in, -1.7 camber and the insides of my 245 RA-1s are wearing out in the inside. I did recently lower my rears .25" lower, and have not re-aligned my car but I figure the slight lowering in the rear would just give me a tiny bit more -camber and a little more toe in. Perhaps I have more toe in than I thought? I guess the kumhos and Toyos probably have different wear characteristics too.

 

Yes, the lowering with out toe correction will eat the tires from the inside- primarily from the toe.
RA-1s like a lot of camber. Corner harder to get more even wear with the current alignment.