B Street Advice/Prep
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Originally Posted by mball19' timestamp='1437667710' post='23690341
[quote name='engifineer' timestamp='1437508087' post='23688147']
[quote name='mball19' timestamp='1437503257' post='23688020']
I have a 2006 that I have been autocrossing for about a year in BS and I have been using the following set up.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
[quote name='mball19' timestamp='1437503257' post='23688020']
I have a 2006 that I have been autocrossing for about a year in BS and I have been using the following set up.
Eibach FSB set to full stiff. So far this bar is plenty stiff for the surface I run on (asphalt only). I have seen a few pictures of my car almost lifting the inside front tire around corners. I can't imagine using a stiffer bar and have had no issues with lifting the inside rear tire.
225/255 Hankook RS3s V2. I think that I would prefer 245s in the front as my car typically has neutral to understeer behavior. It is almost impossible to rotate the rear under throttle with 255s in the rear. I am running 37psi front and 35 psi rear.
I am running max camber up front (~ -1.8) with zero toe and max caster. My rear camber is matched to the front and I am running a little toe in rear.
I still have stock shocks, exhaust and brakes.
I cant imagine you lifting a tire with that bar, or even the stiffest Gendron most likely. I dont know any serious autocrossers that run anything less stiff than a Moddiction\Saner bar for very long. I have also never seen one lift a front tire in a BS setup even with the Gendron on full stiff. Maybe others have, but not I.
You mention you are lifting an inside REAR tire? I have never seen that on an S2000. Are you sure you didnt mean front? If lifting the inside rear, your diff is then open and I can imagine the car behaves horribly. And if you are lifting or near lifting the inside rear, you are nowhere close to lifting the inside front. You dont have enough grip to be lifting both inside wheels at once, so any lift would be mostly due to weight transfer and bar setups, which will typically lift one or the other, but not both.
I read somewhere on here about people lifting the inside rear tire in corners. That may have only applied to cars with slicks.
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That looks very well balanced.,.what is the setup?
That is a long ways from lifting the front tire. It is light, but still not lifting. I have pictures of my Scion tC with the front looking like that, and I can tell you that short of hitting a curb on a racetrack at high speed you will NOT lift the front tire on that car in a corner 
[/quote]
I had one where front right was a little light. Not lifting but light
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So I had the 225/255 RE71R's mounted yesterday and right away I notice the steering wasn't as sharp and precise. It's noticable and sort of floaty feeling. I'm assuming that the little bit of extra contact patch I'm gaining is worth sacrificing a little bit of steering sharpness?
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From: Near Philadelphia
So I had the 225/255 RE71R's mounted yesterday and right away I notice the steering wasn't as sharp and precise. It's noticable and sort of floaty feeling. I'm assuming that the little bit of extra contact patch I'm gaining is worth sacrificing a little bit of steering sharpness?
I've noticed they get significantly sharper after a few events, there's some tread squirm at completely full tread.
If you're wider than before too, then yes the extra contact patch is worth the extra numbness.
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From: Near Philadelphia
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What pressures are you using?
My RE71r's were way softer riding than the stock RE050s, and maybe a little less immediate on steering on the street. On the track that is reversed with high grip and good steering response way after your other tires would have been numb.
My RE71r's were way softer riding than the stock RE050s, and maybe a little less immediate on steering on the street. On the track that is reversed with high grip and good steering response way after your other tires would have been numb.
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I run 34/33 but I am running 255 square, so not much help for you on the front pressures.
That is the on dunlops. I have a new set of RE-71R's being mounted as we speak. Will be trying them out at the next practice event. Looking forward to it, as I have seen direct comparisons in person showing upwards of .3-.5 sec gain on a 35 sec course on the same car, same day. General consensus is that they behave very much like the ZII Star Spec, but just have more grip. So low learning curve and better times for most people I know with both tires.
That is the on dunlops. I have a new set of RE-71R's being mounted as we speak. Will be trying them out at the next practice event. Looking forward to it, as I have seen direct comparisons in person showing upwards of .3-.5 sec gain on a 35 sec course on the same car, same day. General consensus is that they behave very much like the ZII Star Spec, but just have more grip. So low learning curve and better times for most people I know with both tires.