FormulaRedline

I have had no wheelspin or other problems with my Koni's since I got them. I can't comment on the more expensive options having not driven them, but would like to point out that the benefit of the koni's is not their stiffness but the adjustability.

This would lead me to believe, however, that you could benefit from dual adjustables if you can afford them. I don't think I personally could justify paying thousands for dual over single though, as the current options are. But I've got some more time to make up before I'm worried about my placing at nationals.

Orthonormal

Penskes are not $5000+. They are more like $3000 new. If you get single adjustable, they're more like $2200.

I bought a used set for $2k and I really like them. The ride on the street is at least as good as the stock shocks, and when they are stiffened up for competition, the handling is very nice. The valving on these was done by the Shock Shop in Oregon, based in part on the original valving which was done by Ankeny Racing in L.A. My only complaint is that they rattle a bit on the street. I think that's due to the fact that they are prototypes with a thread-on adapter to mate the piston shaft to the upper shock mount.

You should be able to get custom-valved Koni singles for around $1100. Double adjustable isn't really worth that much in my book, not unless you do spend a lot of extra money to get a truly effective low-speed adjustment.

Fagundes and Butts both ran on custom valved Bilstein shocks. I don't know if those were non-asjustable, or PSS9. I would expect that to be a good budget solution as well.

PedalFaster

I'm surprised none of you have stated the obvious: the original poster described his problem (wheelspin) and then offered the wrong cure (new shocks).

Naka, are you sure your sway bar's on full stiff? Have you checked your endlinks to ensure they're intact and properly mounted? Have you checked your rear bar to see if it's binding? Shocks can make a little bit of difference in the amount of wheelspin you get, but sway bars are the primary determinant.

And no, shock technology hasn't changed radically in the year and a half since the FAQ was last updated.

Orthonormal

Steve may be right. Very carefully check the swaybar, the end link attachments, and the brackets that hold the swaybar onto the frame. Make sure that there are no loose or missing bolts.

You do have an AP1 so it's entirely possible that you can get wheelspin with a working front bar. However, you should definitely check it. That's what caused the last reported case of severe wheelspin on this forum.

Kaolinte

[QUOTE=Orthonormal,Oct 23 2006, 04:24 PM] Penskes are not $5000+.

SteveS2K33

Out of curisoity Steve, how would one check to see if the rear bar is bindng other than the obvious checking of the end links?

Windscreen

A few thoughts here:

Wheel spin can be greatly mitigated by smoothness on turn in. Even with 5 years of development time on my car (and the driver), I can induce inside wheel spin if I'm late for the corner and find myself giving the steering wheel a sharp input. The fact that you're saying you can find the rev limiter during wheel spin episodes tells me that you need to spend more time at events, practicing and working on smooth inputs. If you squeeze the throttle you will know before the revs take off that the wheel is light and no more throttle is required.

Others have also raised a good point that you should check your front bar over carefully. Pay close attention to the body mount brackets. I've seen countless brackets that are bent, broke, or missing bolt(s) but have gone unnoticed. Also, the latest generation of autocross tires generate sufficient grip that even on full stiff, the Saner bar may not provide enough force to keep that inside rear planted.

As for shocks, as you have noted, having someone that can do valving is as important as, or more important than the shock itself. That said, I would point out that the top two S2000's at Nationals were running on Penskes. The car in 2nd (mine) is on 8660 and the one in 7th is on 8100. Both were done by SRP Engineering.

Steve

Orthonormal

Sure, because the 8660 compression adjusters go for $2000 by themselves. And they're by no means required. Penske 8100 DA shocks are $3000.

The assertion I replied to was that there was nothing available between the $600 Konis and the $5000 unnamed hypothetical shocks.

PedalFaster

Jack up the back end of the car, disconnect the sway bar endlinks, and try to move the bar by hand. In an ideal world (read: freshly greased bushings) it should move smoothly and fairly easily from just hand pressure. If it doesn't, then you might want to try taking it off, greasing the bushings, and reattaching it, making sure that it's aligned properly.

Naka

Thanks a lot guys. All of what you mentioned is very helpful information for me. I really appreciate it.

Regarding the bar: yes, it is at full stiff. That was the first thing I checked. I also checked the link points and installation. Everything looked fine. However, I think I better double check, and take it to a pro to look it up for me again (I did the install myself, but I would not dare to consider myself a pro).

Regarding the smoothness in turn in: That is so very true. However, in my defense, in have to mention that that behaviour tends to catch me off guard on my first or second runs (maybe because I'm used to drive a completely different car). For the following runs, I have to adjust throttle input and steering to avoid that from happening. But the fact that I cannot "attack" the corner but "drive around it" instead, is making me lose some time, I think.

The main reason I believed it was the shocks, was because now I'm having a similar problem on the street, with street tires and "non-aggressive" driving. And it didn't happen for one day to another, but over the course of the year. Something I never had before. Nonetheless, it is still possible than my Swabar is not correctly installed (or came lose) and I suck at working on cars (something I hope is not true).

Now, based on the answers here, it seems that the best options are the dual adjustable shocks. Penske vs Motons. Price is going to be steep with either one. I just need to deal with the right people. SRP engineering for Penskes or Kings motorsports for Motons. Right?

From my experience on track driving, the capability of adjusting rebound and compression separately is a tremendous advantage if you know how to set them properly. If you don't, you won't be able to tell a difference between D/A and S/A. Or worse. You are going to increase the chances to mess up a potentially well balanced car.

Thanks again guys. You are fantastic.