Beware Powerslot Rotors
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From: Covington WA, USA
Originally Posted by SPLNDID,Nov 13 2007, 01:38 PM
Ok.
So, I'll reverse my usage. Powerslot slotted for the street, and OEMs - or blanks, for the track. (Powerslot slotted may have a slight advantage in wet street situations... and I own a set.)
So, I'll reverse my usage. Powerslot slotted for the street, and OEMs - or blanks, for the track. (Powerslot slotted may have a slight advantage in wet street situations... and I own a set.)
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From: the tracks around Europe
My rotors on the Civic Type-R cracked at the last race.
They were fine all the raced before but that day we borrowed some different pads like we usually used and they instantly cracked hardly (both fronts) after 1 race (40 mins)
The rotors on the Civic are exactly the same (also same pad size) like on the S.
So cracking is also an issue that some pads and rotors don't work well togehter.
They were fine all the raced before but that day we borrowed some different pads like we usually used and they instantly cracked hardly (both fronts) after 1 race (40 mins)
The rotors on the Civic are exactly the same (also same pad size) like on the S.
So cracking is also an issue that some pads and rotors don't work well togehter.
...too hot for some rotors.
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From: Vero Beach
Originally Posted by SPLNDID,Nov 13 2007, 06:19 PM
All,
I've used the Powerslot slotted rotors for two track events and don't detect any issues. Were your rotors drilled and slotted?
I use the new formula Cobalt XRs. Any way that your front brake pins were jammed? (I had that happen once.) Any possibility that the fault could be with anything but the rotors? I'm going for competition time over the next road coarse event with Powerslots and any input will be helpful. Thanks.
BTW, I went with Powerslot because I killed my OEMs and just wanted to see if the slotted rotors would help keep the heat down.
I've used the Powerslot slotted rotors for two track events and don't detect any issues. Were your rotors drilled and slotted?
I use the new formula Cobalt XRs. Any way that your front brake pins were jammed? (I had that happen once.) Any possibility that the fault could be with anything but the rotors? I'm going for competition time over the next road coarse event with Powerslots and any input will be helpful. Thanks.
BTW, I went with Powerslot because I killed my OEMs and just wanted to see if the slotted rotors would help keep the heat down.
They were used really hard with R-compound tires and multiple fairly long sessions, but they weren't pushed as hard as I've pushed the stock rotors in the heat of july in Florida with two of us driving back to back sessions for over an hour with only about 10 minutes of cooling.
These things just can't take the heat (pun intended), plain and simple. Be very careful with these rotors.
-dc
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Drilled rotors are fine....If you have the budget to replace them frequently. Only reason I've been taught as to why the only real justification of using drilled rotors. Easiest way I look at it is like this. What type of rotor does speedworld challenge, grand-am ST use, they all seem to use plain rotors. Regardless of the car make. I even asked a GMG engineer, he said look into some high temp paint to see what rotor temps you are creating if you are worrying about rotor life. So you can be able to properly diagnose the situation.
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From: all up in your grill
Originally Posted by passmans2kny,Nov 12 2007, 10:25 AM
both cracked, thats crazy, and i was thinking about getting those, u have a link to the napas?
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLM...Front+-+Premium
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From: Gilbert, Arizona
Inspected all four PS rotors after event. Saw no cracking. However... DID notice a softer braking in a crucial braking zone at PIR entering turn 9. Held fast on the brakes - but yet the car's momemtum continued forward past to where I should have felt braking. Am not sure if it were because of the track surface, or less grip on the brake rotor.
Will be doing a solid rotor at next event and will report.
CB
Will be doing a solid rotor at next event and will report.
CB
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From: Covington WA, USA
Originally Posted by SPLNDID,Nov 24 2007, 08:40 PM
Inspected all four PS rotors after event. Saw no cracking. However... DID notice a softer braking in a crucial braking zone at PIR entering turn 9. Held fast on the brakes - but yet the car's momemtum continued forward past to where I should have felt braking. Am not sure if it were because of the track surface, or less grip on the brake rotor.
Will be doing a solid rotor at next event and will report.
CB
Will be doing a solid rotor at next event and will report.
CB
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From: Gilbert, Arizona
... yes and no...
the entry in to turn 9 of PIR is undulating. I've noticed that the track is smoother a bit on the inside. The outside of the entry to turn 9 has a billion waves. I'm thinking that the car can't grip the surface correctly with the little ripples because elsewhere around the track, braking is fine.
Perhaps it is where I'm putting the car while braking - AND it could be a combination of too stiff a suspension up front.
For the next event at PIR, I plan to raise the suspension about 1/2 an inch (as it appears that the ride height is at its maximum lowered street height), and soften up the front just a smidge.
BTW... which way should the slotted rotors be turning? I have the vanes turning from the inside toward the outside. I did see vettes with slotted rotors turning toward the inside. Could I have the rotors on backward?
Summary:
Next event will have solid rotors, a ride height adjustment, and dampener tweeks. I'll also be working a new line into turn nine to get out of the ripples.
Man, there is a LOT more to getting good times than just a fast car!
the entry in to turn 9 of PIR is undulating. I've noticed that the track is smoother a bit on the inside. The outside of the entry to turn 9 has a billion waves. I'm thinking that the car can't grip the surface correctly with the little ripples because elsewhere around the track, braking is fine.
Perhaps it is where I'm putting the car while braking - AND it could be a combination of too stiff a suspension up front.
For the next event at PIR, I plan to raise the suspension about 1/2 an inch (as it appears that the ride height is at its maximum lowered street height), and soften up the front just a smidge.
BTW... which way should the slotted rotors be turning? I have the vanes turning from the inside toward the outside. I did see vettes with slotted rotors turning toward the inside. Could I have the rotors on backward?
Summary:
Next event will have solid rotors, a ride height adjustment, and dampener tweeks. I'll also be working a new line into turn nine to get out of the ripples.
Man, there is a LOT more to getting good times than just a fast car!
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