Bolt on hub spacer or 6mm with OEM studs
08-18-2017, 01:52 PM
#21
Yeah I see that it doesn't work and it was the one that shows the slim nuts. This one you can see them on the picture of the box
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...CABEgI-tvD_BwE
this is even better
https://www.nengun.com/project-kics/...iABEgJq5PD_BwE
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...CABEgI-tvD_BwE
this is even better
https://www.nengun.com/project-kics/...iABEgJq5PD_BwE
Last edited by bgoetz; 08-18-2017 at 01:54 PM.
08-18-2017, 02:32 PM
#22
Yeah I see that it doesn't work and it was the one that shows the slim nuts. This one you can see them on the picture of the box
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...CABEgI-tvD_BwE
this is even better
https://www.nengun.com/project-kics/wide-tread-spacers?country=US&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlMX-x-Lh1QIVkySBCh1IegV3EAQYAiABEgJq5PD_BwE
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...CABEgI-tvD_BwE
this is even better
https://www.nengun.com/project-kics/wide-tread-spacers?country=US&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlMX-x-Lh1QIVkySBCh1IegV3EAQYAiABEgJq5PD_BwE
08-18-2017, 02:53 PM
#23
That is what I have been talking about, lol. That said can you really say that is "safer" than a 6mm spacer which gives 9-9.5mm of engagement? Again not saying the design is unsafe, but if that is safe then the 1mm larger spacer would be IMO. I would highly doubt that a 5mm with OEM lugs is perfectly safe and suddenly 1 more mm is totally unsafe. Besides this is temporary for the rest of the season.
08-18-2017, 03:23 PM
#24
That is what I have been talking about, lol. That said can you really say that is "safer" than a 6mm spacer which gives 9-9.5mm of engagement? Again not saying the design is unsafe, but if that is safe then the 1mm larger spacer would be IMO. I would highly doubt that a 5mm with OEM lugs is perfectly safe and suddenly 1 more mm is totally unsafe. Besides this is temporary for the rest of the season.
08-18-2017, 04:51 PM
#25
Only one way to find out! Glad its you and not me. All I can suggest is put that 6m spacer on and see how many turns you can get out of it on the RPF1. I will tell you from experience that the 3mm spacer I use gets me right at 6 full turns on my 8.5 +40 and I wont go any thicker. 5mm works on Stock ap2 v1. Not sure if the hub portion of the wheel is any thinner on the 8 +45, for your sake I hope it is or your going to get about 3 full turns and a trip you weren't planning on.
I will get at least 4 or I will just keep the stock brakes on until I can swap the studs.
08-18-2017, 06:27 PM
#26
I get just 4 and as I look at my functional OEM brakes I relized this is stupid. F' U S2k Junky 
!
I am aborting this mission!
There is no way I could tell a student who just wanted to try a new shinny part out that this was a good idea. So, I will either toss on longer studs before the event, which is unlikely or I will run OEM and swap the studs when I have a bit more time.
! I am aborting this mission!
There is no way I could tell a student who just wanted to try a new shinny part out that this was a good idea. So, I will either toss on longer studs before the event, which is unlikely or I will run OEM and swap the studs when I have a bit more time.
08-18-2017, 10:57 PM
#27
Gotta pay to play.
Do it right or don't do it at all. It's essentially a risk scenario of "what could go wrong?"
Some failure modes are worse than others.
Save $500 at the risk of your safety and whatever you think your car is worth ($15-$25k once parted out + rolling stockish shell)?
It's also a probability of said failure occurring.
This goes back to the "should I seem weld my upper control arm mounts?"
And, actually, I over stated the risk. Based on the failures that I've seen, everyone seems to report a "controllable" on track failure. After,which they fix it. And, while it's a failure mode that will eventually occur for serious track goers, it's one that is addressable after the fact. Someone else facetiously crapped on my reason for the seem welding of the control arms mounting point and had a control arm mounting point failure - thankfully, it was a controllable failure and did not result in an on track incident (thus requiring only a fix of said failure point). So, LOL to that...
On the other hand, a failure mode like your brake line failing at the crimp because you didn't replace a $100 part for 5+ years... That's not very controllable and could lead to serious damage/injury/death.
Again, pick your tolerance for risk. What could go wrong here? You shear your bolts and the wheel falls off... When and where could that happen? In the middle of a 100+ turn... LOL! at best, you have an off track excursion, at worse, you end up in a solid wall or flip your car in said off roading excursion. I'd say your wheel coming off while on track is an "uncontrolled" failure mode.
For me, I always frame mechanical failures in a worst case scenario with probability for failure. At the end of the day, this is a luxury. Your safety is your responsibility.
TL;DR:
If you can't afford to modify your car correctly, then you can't afford to fix it when shit hits the fan. Do it right, or don't do it at all. BTW, what is right? Right is either extended studs or wheels that clear without spacers.
Do it right or don't do it at all. It's essentially a risk scenario of "what could go wrong?"
Some failure modes are worse than others.
Save $500 at the risk of your safety and whatever you think your car is worth ($15-$25k once parted out + rolling stockish shell)?
It's also a probability of said failure occurring.
This goes back to the "should I seem weld my upper control arm mounts?"
And, actually, I over stated the risk. Based on the failures that I've seen, everyone seems to report a "controllable" on track failure. After,which they fix it. And, while it's a failure mode that will eventually occur for serious track goers, it's one that is addressable after the fact. Someone else facetiously crapped on my reason for the seem welding of the control arms mounting point and had a control arm mounting point failure - thankfully, it was a controllable failure and did not result in an on track incident (thus requiring only a fix of said failure point). So, LOL to that...
On the other hand, a failure mode like your brake line failing at the crimp because you didn't replace a $100 part for 5+ years... That's not very controllable and could lead to serious damage/injury/death.
Again, pick your tolerance for risk. What could go wrong here? You shear your bolts and the wheel falls off... When and where could that happen? In the middle of a 100+ turn... LOL! at best, you have an off track excursion, at worse, you end up in a solid wall or flip your car in said off roading excursion. I'd say your wheel coming off while on track is an "uncontrolled" failure mode.
For me, I always frame mechanical failures in a worst case scenario with probability for failure. At the end of the day, this is a luxury. Your safety is your responsibility.
TL;DR:
If you can't afford to modify your car correctly, then you can't afford to fix it when shit hits the fan. Do it right, or don't do it at all. BTW, what is right? Right is either extended studs or wheels that clear without spacers.
Amazing
08-24-2017, 04:44 PM
#30