Boost for autox, no boost or low boost for Track
This may sound a bit strange but follow my thought process here for a second. My car as it stands is classed in SSM for SCCA Autox. I'd like to have some fun and put up a fight so I'm thinking of going boost next year SC or Turbo (see options below) and slap on some nice wide sticky tires. I also like to hit the track a couple of times a year but now I'm concerned about heat management and reliability for long sessions.
How reasonable would it be to say run a SC at 10 or 12 psi of boost normally and for autox but when I hit the track, remove the belt and run a different "track" tune that is NA. Would I be down on power significantly by having the blower there but not used? If I went SC I was thinking of having this kind of tune anyway in case I did run into issues and had to run the car without the blower. Easy enough to do with the haltech PnP.
What if I went turbo and ran high boost normally and for autox but then limited boost to like 5 or 6 psi at the track. Would I still encounter the same heat issues as with high boost?
I only do HPDEs so I don't care about winning so running crazy boost doesn't really matter to me but it would be nice to have a little boost in performance (pun intended) if possible especially for early and late season track events where cooler ambient temps will let me run it.
How reasonable would it be to say run a SC at 10 or 12 psi of boost normally and for autox but when I hit the track, remove the belt and run a different "track" tune that is NA. Would I be down on power significantly by having the blower there but not used? If I went SC I was thinking of having this kind of tune anyway in case I did run into issues and had to run the car without the blower. Easy enough to do with the haltech PnP.
What if I went turbo and ran high boost normally and for autox but then limited boost to like 5 or 6 psi at the track. Would I still encounter the same heat issues as with high boost?
I only do HPDEs so I don't care about winning so running crazy boost doesn't really matter to me but it would be nice to have a little boost in performance (pun intended) if possible especially for early and late season track events where cooler ambient temps will let me run it.
It sounds like a turbo setup with a boost controller would be your prefered setup. Get the lightest wastegate spring available, those typically translate into 6-7psi of boost, and that'll be your base setting for HPDE use. For street/auto-x use, just use the boost controller to turn up the power.
The amount of heat you need to reject is directly proportional to how much power you make. More boost, more power, more heat.
The amount of heat you need to reject is directly proportional to how much power you make. More boost, more power, more heat.
Thanks. I wanted to add that I'd prefer SC just for the purpose of ease when it comes to emissions inspection time as I can disconnect it, put back the stock injectors and plug in the stock ECU. If I go turbo I'd have to get rid of my Haltech and switch to KPro so I can set readiness on the ODB2 without having to worry about getting into boost.
Depends on how competitive you want to be for autox.
Personally, I'd convert car from SSM to STR and run it on track in that configuration.
For fun on track without competition, I'd go SC. But you won't really be competitive in local SSM with a SC. Unless your local class is weak.
Big sticky tires also means stock component failure.
Personally, I'd convert car from SSM to STR and run it on track in that configuration.
For fun on track without competition, I'd go SC. But you won't really be competitive in local SSM with a SC. Unless your local class is weak.
Big sticky tires also means stock component failure.
What stock component failure are you referring to? I'm running a puddymod stage 2 diff with OSGiken and welded the front a-arms where Rs have proven to rip it from the frame. I'm guessing the tranny could be the weak point here. I'd be up against hamfist racing's RX7 driven by Jake Namer so I know I'm not sure if I can beat that no matter how much boost I run (better driver in a better car). No one's really attempted a S2000 in a real SSM car in our region so I figure I might as well try since I'm already halfway there.
My car was STR but I don't want to track a STR trim car because it doesn't give me allowances I want for reliability such as have a cryo treated diff, brake ducts, AP2 valve cover, AP2 retainers and I can't run aero which I really feel adds to the stability of the car during high speed corners at the track. That plus I really enjoy autoxing with Rs, sliding around on street tires is fun but boy do I miss hooning around on Hoosiers. It's better stress relief than than a happy ending sometimes.
Yeah, I figured the SC would be the least ideal option here. It would seem that the added low end torque of a fast spooling turbo would be the better option so it is on the table. I'm just wondering if running off wastegate boost at the track at only maybe 6psi would be manageable (heat-wise) with FMIC, oil cooler, vented hood and big radiator.
My car was STR but I don't want to track a STR trim car because it doesn't give me allowances I want for reliability such as have a cryo treated diff, brake ducts, AP2 valve cover, AP2 retainers and I can't run aero which I really feel adds to the stability of the car during high speed corners at the track. That plus I really enjoy autoxing with Rs, sliding around on street tires is fun but boy do I miss hooning around on Hoosiers. It's better stress relief than than a happy ending sometimes.
Yeah, I figured the SC would be the least ideal option here. It would seem that the added low end torque of a fast spooling turbo would be the better option so it is on the table. I'm just wondering if running off wastegate boost at the track at only maybe 6psi would be manageable (heat-wise) with FMIC, oil cooler, vented hood and big radiator.
The problem with Hoosiers is that they start off great, but pretty quickly fall off to sub-RS3 levels of grip.
Tranny and diff. With an SC, tranny may hold up okay. A stage 2 diff may or may not hold up okay. Do you have a 1st Gen or 2nd Gen OS Giken? STR guys killed their 1st Gen due to underengineering of the ends.
Do what's fun for you. Make sure you budget plenty for breakage and consumables, though.
Tranny and diff. With an SC, tranny may hold up okay. A stage 2 diff may or may not hold up okay. Do you have a 1st Gen or 2nd Gen OS Giken? STR guys killed their 1st Gen due to underengineering of the ends.
Do what's fun for you. Make sure you budget plenty for breakage and consumables, though.
Yeah I ran Hoosiers for a half season after I left STR. Addicting would be an understatement. I have the 1st Gen OSGiken and I don't hold back (have my OEM pumpkin as backup). It's holding up just fine. We'll see if I can break it but I'm hoping the tighter tolerances of the puddymod built diffs will hold up. Puddymod has quite boldly stated no one's broken a stage 2 diff yet up to 350whp which is around what I'd be at 10psi. I'm ok with consumables like tires, brakes, oil. I just don't want to go through motors. Would axles be a concern too? I know that autox does stress parts different than track so I'd rather overbuild a little if I can prevent breakage.
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Now that I'm thinking about this more, perhaps I should just revisit my old post about going to BSP (https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/915...pping-for-bsp/). I might have a better chance there than SSM. I could run Hoosiers and other than replacing my wing with a spoiler, I'd be ok with what I have now and still be ok for track days.





