Is this true?

 

 

No (about the Motul, who knows about the shrinkage).

 

There is only a 30 degree difference in boiling points on both scales between the ATE and Motul so for less than half the cost I go for ATE. Plus you can swap colors to determine when you're getting the fresh fluid.

Infidel, if you ran your master cylinder dry make sure you do the proper procedure for bleeding it. It is more intensive than just putting in more fluid and proceeding as normal (I think, haven't had to check before on this car).

 

Sigh, please read more carefully before making statements that are patently untrue.

While there may indeed be only about 30 degrees difference in WET boiling points between Ate Superblue or 200 and Motul 600, the DRY boiling points are almost 60 (or more than 10%) degrees apart.

Whether this is significant enough to warrant the price difference in your application, only you can know, but please try to stick to the facts.

 

[QUOTE=l8brakr,Apr 27 2005, 10:26 AM]Infidel, if you ran your master cylinder dry make sure you do the proper procedure for bleeding it.

 

So I am going to do my first track day with NASA this May. I am running Spoon Mono Block Calipers and Hawk pads on the stock rotors. Should I be concerned with any fading?

Are there aftermarket master cylinders for the s2000?

 

Infidel, the bubbles you were seeing were probably coming through the threads of the bleeder itself.

d, make sure you have some fresh fluid and you will be all good with your setup. What Hawk pads are you running? As you get more advanced (faster) you may want to make the jump up to race dedicated pads.

 

[QUOTE=dstanfield1977,Apr 29 2005, 10:33 AM]So I am going to do my first track day with NASA this May.

 

Well it surely not my first time on the track. I have about 1000 laps under my belt at Thunderhill on race bikes (gsxr750, RC51, 636, 954, etc).

I think ill be ok as fine as knowing the lines an such.

One thing that bothers me is fading, on a bike when the fronts fade bad, you can muscle them a little and then use the back too (as most the time it never gets touched). On a car you can't isolate front and rear so when it fades, its gone, and you have 10 times the mass to slow down.

I am pretty sure the Spoon calipers and hawk pads will be fine. i was more concerned with the OEM rotors...should I be?

Dave