the cobalts don't eat the rotors and they stop squealing (mostly) after about 3-4 days of using them on the street.

-Ry

 

XP10's stop the noise after a day - dust remains high though.

 

You don't need nearly as high-temp a pad for the rear (front's do most of the work). As msm_s2k said, you can get away with even OEM pads rear, but most recommend/use a pad that's one or two levels down from the front (and they're cheaper). I generally used HT-10 front with Blues of Blacks rear (no good reason for choosing between them).

 

Makes sense, although I ran OEM front and rear last week at the track and both wore perfectly evenly to nothingness. Could be that once the front faded the rears took the brunt of the force though.

 

Trying to sneek in a set of pads after we already set a handicap for laguna?

I'm still ok with the handicap though....

 

Hey PUNK@SS:

You're dead:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry10186055

BC

 

[QUOTE=RV6pilot,Apr 3 2007, 03:43 PM] Trying to sneek in a set of pads after we already set a handicap for laguna?

 

Bedding in process is explained well on Hawk's website.

 

Track pads dust and are noisy way too much, takes 10-15 min to change fronts.

 

You might want to get some HP+ pads for the front to change into after so you don't have to change the rear pads after each event which really sucks. The fronts are easy after you've done it a couple of times. Go get a giant set of channel lock pliers like these from Home Depot:

http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/48..._Tongu_P4C3.cfm

They aren't called BigAZZ for nothing. Wrap the jaws in electrical tape and you'll have a 2 second piston retractor (credit to davepk for that).