With all this brake talk, we should agree on testing procedures to see what's good? what's bad?

May I suggest that anyone having the opportunity to go to the "track" record their brake temp via temp paint. Performance friction, as well as Rebco Racing has a product called "Smart-temp." It's around $30 from Racer Parts Wholesale. Anyway, its a paint that changes color from red to black or 371 degrees C to 800 degrees C. This accurate to about +/- 100 degrees, close enough for me. Its the high temp you what to get to select the appropriate brake pads.

Let' see... now... What is pads work for the front? What's good for the rears? How effective is my ducting? I'm I overcooling/undercooling? Is cooking the rear brake caused by severe fading up front causing the rear brakes to take up the slack and unable to cool fast enough since its solid? Which PFC Compound 93? 99? 90? Porterfield R4? R4s? R4E? etc. Do I still need ducting if I use Hawk Blues? Blacks? Will the OE pads work if I have ducting? Which track is hard on brakes? Why is his car running cooler brakes when we have the same setup? Anyway lots of questions could be guess-timated.

Infrared pyrometers? Good for checking brake bias. The relative temps between front and rear, it precise enough. You have to pit before you can stop and your brakes would have cooled quite a bit. It's racetrack conditions we're talking about anyway. OE brakes are fantastic for the street. What you want is hi temps.

Smart-temp. $30. Only one bottle. Racer Parts Wholesale. Rebco Racing. Performance friction.

I'll post me findings late June and July. Hopefully, there will be other S2Ks running to test. Hope somebody posts before I do.

[Edited by BBSpoon on 05-23-2001 at 12:34 PM]