Mac,

I think it was on throttle corner exit looseness but your welcome to watch the video over and over and see what you think. What's so strange is how the first run of the video and the last run are on the sane exact setting but the cars handles completely different on the grippier surface. The first race was Saturday, second was Sunday. So back to back days.

I'm not racing this weekend but will be racing in two weeks. Between now and then I'm going to change the rear toe from .25" total to .125" total. Then depending on how the car handles after the first run ill make shock changes as you guys talked about.

Sucks to have to wait two weeks to test the car but I don't have my own personal test pad haha

 

Its amazing how much driver input can change the behavior tendency of the car, from an outside perspective looking tight or loose in a particular way. I think we often get hung up on purely the set up of the car beyond the go fast equipment basics, forgetting that driver input is the other 50% of the equation, and large part of car set up is making it feel comfortable to drive fast to run at the limit predictably, and that's going to differ from car to driver.

 

this is a nice site too:

http://www.turnzero.com/technical_re...mics_assistant

 

To me it looks like the slide is initiated off throttle then gets out of hand by your application of throttle.

You're getting off the gas then getting on the gas too soon then back off and the slide starts then you get back on the gas again. Well at least that's what I'm seeing and obviously you'd know best.

 

I'll do the alignment change and try smooth inputs and throttle application next event. This is only my 2nd/3rd event in the car so it's all new to me! I could be agressive with inputs on the AP1 and not upset the car, I'll work on that and we can re look at some runs after I race again.

sound good!?

Thanks for all the shock tuning stuff! I've got a bit to read.

 

Good eyes Josh--look how far into the turn you're looking. Textbook.

This is a great thread with lots of very good advice.

 

Thanks Rob!

I just got back home from the shop, I changed the rear toe from .28 in to .10 in per side. I did find it interesting that one side of the rear had -3.0 degrees of camber and the other had -2.6. I originally set them to -2.7 per side about a month ago. Not sure how much that effected the cars handling?

The plan is to either run the car with the toe change and shock settings as is then make changed to the shocks as needed based on the handling of the car. The other option would be to set the shock settings the same front and rear, then make changes based on how it handles. Which should I do?

 

I would recommend just running the car as-is with nothing but the toe change. This way you can evaluate the impact of the toe-change exclusively. Once you understand how it has effected the balance, make further shock adjustments as required.

Nick

 

^ I agree with Nick.


Josh, you need to find out how your alignment changed. Normally when any alignment adjuster slips it knocks the toe way out of whack. How was your your rear toe before you changed it? Have you checked your sub frame bolts for security? Have you marked your alignment adjusters so you can tell if one moves? Are your bushings blown and allowing your alignment to change slightly?

0.10" per side of toe-in is still on the high side for an AP2.


AP2: Total Toe-In is 0.14 inch +/- 0.08 inch or the range of 0.06 - 0.22 inch
For each rear tire toe-in is 0.07 inch +/- 0.04 inch or the range of 0.03 - 0.11 inch

 

Rob,

I just woke up and resaw this post. I'm talking degrees! So I just set the car to .1 degrees each side. That's between a 1/16" and 1/8" but closer to a 1/16. Which is well within that range...

1/16" is .0625"
1/8" is .125

I'm somewhere in that range...