The 2003 AP1 I bought last year had already been campaigned in Solo, and I think a Pro-Solo or two as well. It came with a Gendron front sway bar, Pro-Parts revalved Koni single adjstables, and an autocross alignment.

Right after I bought it, I took it to get the alignment checked. It had -1.8* camber on both sides up front, but only about 4.5* caster, and zero toe. I left it like that and just drove it last year. I just concentrated on having fun, as the AP1 isn't "the car" for BS class anyway...,

Last weekend, we started our local season with a 2-day Evo School. Part way through the first day, we smoked the clutch. In retrospect, I wasn't surprised. I expected that it saw some hard use before I bought it, and I had been slipping the clutch for fear of breaking the diff, when I should have learned how to do the "sidestep" instead....,

Now, to tie this together; I obviously had to jack the car up really high and lower the subframe to change the clutch. While I was under there I looked at the adjusters up front. The camber eccentrics were maxxed out, but the caster eccentrics were not, so I maxxed them out as well. After I put it back together, I took it for an alignment. I told them I wanted as much camber and caster as I could get and still be even left-to-right. It ended up at -1.9* camber and 5.5* caster. Looking at their before/after numbers, I "might" be able to shift the subframe and get a little more of one or the other, but that's less caster than I expected.

After thinking about it some more, it looks to me like maxxing out the camber eccentric would also reduce caster somewhat (or at least reduce the available range), so am I correct in thinking I can't get -2* camber and 6* caster at the same time with stock adjusters?

 

I think thats right you can get a bit more camber if you sit the caster mid range, I usualy end up between 5.0-5.5 degrees caster
The only thing a lot of caster seems to do is make the wheel want to come back to center faster.

 

That is almost exactly where mine is set. Per Dan's suggestion I went max caster before static camber was effected and ended up about right where you are. Alignment feels great IMO

 

Check the compliance bushings, but I'm uncertain if a visual inspection can reveal the moderate wear/issues. I am told they age/wear causing decreases in caster and ultimately camber.

 

Hmm, I'll go look up what my final specs were but I believe with about 1.9 negative camber, we were able to get almost 6 degrees of caster.

 

Thanks for the info guys! I actually asked them to shift the subframe if needed and that I'd pay extra for it, but they didn't do it. I looked at his "before" numbers again and it started with (-2.3 left and -1.9 right), so he backed 0.4 out of the left with the eccentric. I'll be looking for another place, as the guy I used to count on isn't there any more. I got under it this afternoon and he'd made significant adjustments rather than shift the subframe. I loosened it and managed to shift it about 1/8th inch, and got a little more camber and caster with my "eyeball and tape measure" alignment. ((2.3+1.9)/2 = 2.1), and that's what I measured for camber this afternoon with my digital camber gauge. The car has 55k on it, but I'll check the bushings and take it somewhere else when I have time and get it fine tuned. I drove it to work this evening and it's tracking straight and feels stable. Thanks again!