Check Your Subframe Bolts - S2KI Honda S2000 Forums



S2000 Racing and Competition The S2000 on the track and Solo circuit. Some of the fastest S2000 drivers in the world call this forum home.

Check Your Subframe Bolts

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-17-2013, 10:36 AM   #1
Moderator
Thread Starter
 
robrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 4,519
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default Check Your Subframe Bolts

This is a repost from the alignment thread but I think it's important enough to warrant it's own thread. I checked my 12 subframe bolts and found 8 of them loose. My alignment settings were changing and I couldn't figure out why. Be sure and verify the subframe alignment using the reference holes shown in the shop manual diagram. A large punch will give you more accurate alignment than a screwdriver. If the alignment holes are off then loosen the subframe bolts enough to move the subframe into alignment then tighten and torque the bolts.

On the front subframe I checked the alignment holes and it appears the front subframe is pretty much centered but the two rearmost 17mm bolts were almost finger tight. I put a bunch of Locktite on them and torqued them to spec + 10%. All four of the big 19mm bolts were tight.

All six of my rear subframe bolts were loose. I verified the subframe alignment then removed the four 17mm bolts,one at a time, put a lot of Locktite on them then torqued them to spec + 10%. I made the mistake of removing one of the big 19mm bolts because it was a bitch to re-install. The shop manual says to replace the subframe bolts when you loosen them, I guess that's why. I simply torqued the other big 19mm bolt.

I'm embarrassed I went so long before checking the subframes. Checking these bolts will become a standard inspection for me.




robrob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 10:47 AM   #2
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,863
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Wow, good catch! Definitely something many of us wouldn't think about checking!

-Marc
sirbunz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 11:37 AM   #3
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Good tip for everyone pretty useful as I just changed mine. Where did you find these diagrams though I wonder if they have them for different areas with torque specs.
Killabaku is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 01:30 PM   #4
Moderator
Thread Starter
 
robrob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 4,519
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default

The diagrams are from the AP1 shop manual and the torque specs are on the diagrams. 43lb-ft for all the 17mm bolts, 85lb-ft for the front 19mm bolts and 76lb-ft for the rear 19mm bolts.
robrob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 04:59 PM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,342
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robrob View Post
The diagrams are from the AP1 shop manual and the torque specs are on the diagrams. 43lb-ft for all the 17mm bolts, 85lb-ft for the front 19mm bolts and 76lb-ft for the rear 19mm bolts.
My thanks to you as well. We realigned/centered the subframes after my incident last year and they torqued em' all down, but I am sure gonna go back and check them all before the start of the season. Great post!

Nick
Forcednduckshn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 05:32 PM   #6
 
andrewhake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Mt. ________
Posts: 5,456
Thanked 33 Times in 22 Posts
Default

Definitely good to know thanks. Makes a pretty good case for Subframe rigid collars as well.
andrewhake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 04:21 AM   #7
Member
 
CKit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,734
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Good catch and thanks for sharing!
CKit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 06:59 AM   #8
Registered User
 
BirdShot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 529
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robrob View Post
The diagrams are from the AP1 shop manual and the torque specs are on the diagrams. 43lb-ft for all the 17mm bolts, 85lb-ft for the front 19mm bolts and 76lb-ft for the rear 19mm bolts.

Awesome! Thanks for sharing this, I will be checking mine soon.
BirdShot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 11:25 PM   #9
 
Liquidsation's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hendersonville TN
Posts: 2,726
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Same thing happened to me last year. I figured since it was a salvage/rebuilt title mine were loose from the rebuild. My car would dart left or right every time I hit a dip, not a good feeling on track. Kind of felt like 4 wheel steering turning into corners too.
Liquidsation is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2013, 01:20 PM   #10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Belgium
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I would advice everyone to check this. I checked my rear subframe and all 6 bolts where lose.
There was maybe 30 Nm on them. I never noticed during driving (I don't track though).
Thanks robrob.
plons is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY: Intermittent or Constant Daytime Running Light on dash FIX El S2000 S2000 Under The Hood 5 11-18-2016 01:13 PM
Low Profile Crank Bolt NitroSpazzz S2000 Under The Hood 5 11-13-2016 04:31 PM
Cylinder Head Gasket Bevy UK & Ireland S2000 Community 2 10-31-2016 03:58 AM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:38 PM.


 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
What's your question?
Send