[QUOTE]Originally posted by jzr
[B]Endlinks?

 

$750 for a bar and you have to reuse the stock endlinks??? I wouldn't if I were you. Since you apparently have to buy endlinks (sic) get a nice set of teflon lined rod ends.

 

I'm just lurking these days so if you all need to reach me go ahead and e-mail me directly (baby_nsx@yahoo.com)

Yup, we popped a stock one at the Atwater Pro I think... well, it was one of those concrete Cali sites with lots of g-loads. Mitch Fagundes was AWESOME and pulled one of his off his car since he had a shorter drive so we could make it home...

I'll see if Ron has more info on the "custom" made one he put together after that. All the parts he used were available locally, either in Home Depot type places or specialty screw places.

While the stock ones WILL work, I'd advise all of you to hold off installing the bar until you can put a stronger end link on. It'll save you the hassle and headache of doing it more than once. I know Comptech was trying to come up with a good solution, apparently they didn't get it done in time to get it on the street. I was going to call them on prices for a few things tomorrow anyway, I'll ask them what's up.

over and out...

Annie

 

You go girl! It would save us all a ton of time if somebody (Comptech, Gregg Lee, Bueller?) could post a known-good setup for rod ends - lengths, diameters, etc.

I re-read one of the original threads on this bar, and some thought that one or both bars is connected all the time. That's not the case. With the pin removed, you have essentially no swaybar, and can pull it apart into two pieces, like a sword out of its sheath.

Here's an exceptionally poor rendition of the basic dimensions:

When shown in this orientation the furthest left of the five holes would be the stiffest setting.

Weight is between 13 and 14 lbs. For those interested and that have the formula for swaybar stiffness lying around, the inner bar has a 1.25" O.D. with a 1/8" wall, and the outer bar has a 1-5/8" O.D. with a 5/32" wall. My measuring device (tape measure) isn't the most accurate so these figures are only best approximations.

I'll try to get it installed this weekend to have for LS on Monday...latez!

 

Please weigh your stock bar so we can compare them. Thanks

 

Jason, if I understand you correctly, the inner bar must be cut into two sections, a left and a right. The outer tube is welded to the shorter inner bar? One bolt is installed to set the stiffness? This would mean that full soft is mainly due to the inner bar and full stiff is due to only the outer tube. If this is true, woudn't the bar be even stiffer if the far left and right hole were bolted, so both the inner and outer tube were resisting twist?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RandyP
[B]Jason, if I understand you correctly, the inner bar must be cut into two sections, a left and a right.

 

jzr,

Would you mind posting details of the rod end links you found? Did you use a local hardware store?

Thanks,
James

 

I am real interested in your endlinks. We have a group buy going on the bar. https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...?threadid=40301

 

Hey guys, sorry it took me a bit to reply but I did finally get a chance to talk with the General Manager of Comptech yesterday - Mike Bibinoff.

The reason they didn't include end links is they couldn't come up with a good solution. They are still looking.

They looked IN DEPTH at all the end link things you guys are likely going to be putting together, which are likely very similar to what Ron & I had on our car. However, the engineers got involved with their fancy-dancy computer programs and realized pretty quickly all the parts available (even stuff you can't get at your local hardware store) had limitations.

I have to plead ignorance on all this stuff, so if you have detailed questions call Mike directly at Comptech. But I will repeat some of our conversation...

With the S2K suspension, there's very little room where this end link is and the angle is extreme. So they had to look at clearance problems (which we definitely had with our home-made end links!) as well as making sure the angle was correct.

With the parts available on the market today, you can make an end link that works, but is not ideal. The problem come in the "angularity". The rough numbers are as follows - the non-stock end links that can be made from available parts can only achieve something like 12-14 degrees "angularity" while the stock end links are at about 18 degrees (he was throwing numbers out off the top of his head - don't take these as gospel). With the possibility of running out of "angularity" the rod ends can bottom out. This can result in bent rod ends.

So, you get to pick the lesser of two evils for you - stock end links that will likely break at some point (note for future reference - the stock end links have PLASTIC joints - no surprise they break!) or home-grown end links that potentially can bend the rod ends.

They've been able to locate parts for end links that work, but not enough to make a good one. For example, they can find the male end but not a corresponding female end. He did say that if you do get the parts and make some yourselves, you don't have to spend the big bucks for the higher grade stuff. You'd likely get a 7/16 himes joint, and the rod ends you use can be the less expensive stuff - basically you won't gain anything in getting the $40 rod end v. the $10 one.

As I said, I've got to plead ignorance - give Mike a call if you have any questions - Comptech's number is (916) 933-1080.

Mike is an autocrosser, by the way...

Oh, and for those of you who did buy the bar, just so you know, you're in very good company, the first two bars went to HIGHLY competitive national level drivers (maybe, possibly last year's National champ? ) so you've made a good decision! Well, that's my opinion so take it for what it's worth!

Gotta run
Annie