I saw earlier this week someone from Comptech quoting $749.99 - this was in the forum on their website, which now seems to be blown up.

I'll still probably buy one since it's cheaper to buy one thing that works than two or more things that don't.

 

Wow.

That's a chunk of change.......but i agree with you if it works it's worth it.

 

ouch. Well, I'm wondering, for those that are not yet to the point of Nationals-level autocrossing (like me), is it really worth it? I have no idea how much the other swaybars are, but if half as much as this new comptech, I don't know what to do........ As far as adjustability goes, at the local stuff there is no chance to adjust between runs, and I would have no idea how to set things up by analyzing the course in advance. I've got a lot more to learn......

Or maybe I'll just put 265's on the rears when the current 245's wear out.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by s2kfun
[B] I don't believe the pin takes the whole torsional load.

 

Good points Brad. As a potential purchaser of this bar, I'd be a bit concerned if the "pin or bolt" (from their captions) doesn't go all the way through. If it does go all the way through, it'll be in double shear, eliminating the lever problem and giving the bolt a better chance of living. I would hope the ID of the outer bar and OD of the inner bar are very close too.

It's going to be difficult to calculate stiffness of this bar without knowing the diameter and wall thicknesses of both tubes. Even then it's not straightforward, for at the stiffest setting it still appears to use just the inner tube for a few inches. It'd be nice if the hole locations were engineered to correspond to common single tube diameters/thicknesses. Probably not though...

In any case it looks like a fun toy. I want one.

 

After re-reading RandyP's post, I realized I had the bars backwards. As he stated the outter bar is the "helper" or "adjustment" type bar being welded at only one end, with different lengths of it working in parallel with the inner bar depending on pin position. With the pin completely removed you are still left with the inner bar, this means that with the pin in, the pin only sees the extra resistance provided by the outter bar. The pin doesn't take the whole load so it failing shouldn't be an issue. Guess we'll have to wait to find out.