My Hawk HPS pads were utter garbage. I just tried 'em at Mont Tremblant and they sucked from the first braking zone. They didn't last, either. Put the stock ones back in, HUGE improvement!

 

Wow, first my tires, now my brakes...

I did not expect the brakes to be as good as they appear to be.

I specifically broke them in according to the instructions on the lid of the box. The last two stops smelled like a burned clutch lining. Then I drove the recommended 15 minutes without touching them again. They really work great in the last ~400 miles. With my stock pads I never came close to ABS working; now I can modulate in and out of ABS with less pedal effort than ever before. I also changed brake fluid at the same time. I used the speed bleeders I read about some time ago in R&C. They are the best investment I have made so far. Maybe I overheated my stock brakes at an earlier event and caused issues I never new about until now...

 

Oh well, the brakes are the brakes. I'll find out soon.

What I really need to know is if I can put the RA-1 235/40-17 profile onto a stock AP2 front rim. Has anyone done this?

I just put a tape measure inside the front rim. It looks more like 8" outside to outside. Is anyone sure of the AP2 front rim width?

 

I have driven thousands of track miles with 235/45-17 RA-1 fronts, 255/40-17 rear, on stock AP2 wheels. They work fine. I am happiest with my Gendron front bar at a medium setting, since it's easier for me to control oversteer than understeer.

 

(I won't mention coming over the crest of T7 and seeing you looking straight back at me, then.)

 

I've run a 245/45 on the front AP2 wheels for over 700 track miles, works fine.

 

That is mighty thoughtful of you.

I didn't say the driver always was fine; just the tires always were fine. Besides, that particular spin (still my finest, I think) was either on stock Potenzas or Michelin PSCs; and that spin was pilot error.

 

[QUOTE=Surreal_S2K,Aug 23 2007, 06:06 PM] I specifically broke them in according to the instructions on the lid of the box.

 

To all who have helped me get through this event, I sincerely thank you.

I spent the last 4 hours attaching the swaybar. I set it at the next to firmest setting. I don't know if I am right or wrong, but I will find out.

I hope to show up at Beaverun tomorrow morning in hopes of a cancellation, we'll see how it goes...

The car feels absolutely great. I feel like I'm one of the boys now. I am surprised how docile it appears to be on the street. I guess it's the extra grip fooling me... The brakes will not go into ABS with the new rubber on, but it sure does stop quick.

The 45 profile only looks odd, there is no apparent effect from inside the car. I do have the euro alignment as well. I was afraid I would turn the S into a little monster, but it seems like they should sell it this way from the factory...

Thanks again for all the advice. I will update you if I am lucky enough to hit the track.

I look forward to my next round of questions, I'm sure they will come soon.

Keith

 

not sure about the HPS pads, but most track pads need you to do 8+ hard stops from ~100 to 15ish. 30-40 will never get track brakes bedded. No way you could have got them to temp.

Not to insult you, but as you get more track time you will find your stock pads will not hold up. OEMs work great for the street, but they won't last one cession even on OEM tires... I"ve tried and it cost me (well really the dealership since they covered it ) four pads and rotors

I can't speak for HPS, but it just sounds like they weren't bedded and were stopping you with rotor-pad friction and not pad-rotor bonding.