I don't know that I'd agree with that one - I've never had a push issue at Grissom w/Gendron bar @ full stiff. What works at Grissom typically works at Topeka, except for the additional bumpy stuff we have in Topeka. Depends more on what heat you run in, IMHO.

 

I'm also running 225's on all four corners. I don't get much push.

 

I don't know if the car is driveable with this setup on any surface!

 

[QUOTE=PedalFaster,Apr 10 2005, 08:30 PM]I'm surprised that no one has posted here yet.

News flash: glagola1 wins the Atlanta National Tour over Windscreen!

 

And I'll be looking for some payback come July 2nd!

After about 2 days worth of test & tunes at Peru, I'd say my car is very dialed in there. More to come on that later, in another thread, and when I get some spare time.

One other note, regarding rain: I have always found our concrete sites (Peru & Topeka) to be much grippier when wet than asphalt. In fact you can successfully run dry DOT tires until the surface gets "shiny" due to the standing water. I think this bit differs from a road course because on a road course the concrete "on line" gets polished from so many laps on the same spot. Auto-x concrete is always fresh, so to speak.

Steve

 

Trash talkin' mofo.

 

Airport concrete is not exactly the same as the stuff that your house's foundation is made from. Or even the stuff that a road course might be made with. It has to meet fairly rigorous specs for surface friction, even when wet.

On the other hand, if they made the highways out of this stuff we would probably all get less than 10K miles of use out of out street tires....

 

As far as setup changes my experience is that the more grip there is, the more front bar the car will need to prevent wheelspin, and also the more front bar you can run without getting horrible push. That kinda contradicts what Steve said, but not really. What I am saying is there is a lot more grip on concrete. You get a lot more bite at the front end, and with the same front bar setting that worked on asphalt you might get more body roll which means more inside rear wheel lift and wheelspin. You need more bar to keep the inside rear wheel on the ground.

But the setting which is ideal for concrete may overload the front tires on asphalt, causing the front to wash out before the car has a chance to start turning. But concrete also provides more grip at the rear, and especially when putting power down. So yes, you might get more push but it completely depends on your setup and the condition of your tires. In general though, I'd say you need to go stiffer on concrete, and since the front bar is the only thing you can do in stock...

This applied equally to both my ES MR2 and the AS S2000.

Peter

 

Boy! I'll say!

That was one hell of a ride around the course! Thanks again.

Geoff

 

I've found this even with different types (or newer?) asphalt. In NY/NJ we have fairly low grip asphalt, then I show up at Ripkin and the grip is awesome - but I don't believe what the car is telling me until few runs in. One other NY driver at a recent event relayed the same thing to me about not believing how much grip was out there and not having the faith to use it (I never knew what inside rear wheelspin was until this surface).


At my level (mediocre), you don't adjust to high grip as quickly as top drivers do.