robrob

I need to disable the steering wheel lock on my S. I've heard the standard procedure is to use a sharp chisel to turn the two security bolts and separate the two halves of the steering lock, then insert a piece of sheet metal between the lock plunger and the steering shaft. It looks like it would be easier to simply drill out the plunger. It looks like the plunger is on the bottom side of the lock so access would be easy. Anyone tried this? Any other ideas on how to disable it?

Thanks in advance,

Rob

Stratocaster

I removed the lock completely and hard wired the power wires directly at the connector.

To remove the lock assembly, you drill out the top of the bolt. I used an easy out to back them out but the manual has you just break them off. From there you can see your options.

robrob

Strat,

What kind of switch did you use? I was thinking a two or three position toggle with a safety cover--with "run" in the cover down position.

Also, I want to verify the plunger is near the bottom of the lock--with a round flat base. That's where I'm considering drilling to remove the plunger.

Thanks,

Rob

Stratocaster

I have a master cut off switch that kills everything. I did not use a switch at all and since we have a separate start switch circuit, there is really no need. Then I just cut the wires off of the key switch. Next I closed the circuits in that pig tail and used heat shrink to seal it up. So now I have a 3-4" heat shrink pig tail. If I want to disable this car, I just remove this from the plug.

I will shoot a picture of the steering shaft and lock so you can see what you are looking at.

robrob

I never thought about using the kill switch as the on/off switch--brilliant! If you can tell me which wires to pig-tail (and keep me from having to open the service manual) that would be even sweeter. If you can shoot me a picture of your pigtail setup.

Thanks for the help Strat,

Rob

Stratocaster

Here is what the lock assembly looks like when you pull it from the steering shaft. You can see the locking bolt in the center. I don't have my steering shaft here at the house and the other is in my car and I can trying to make the track on Friday.



This is the locking pin outside of the assembly. I removed the key cylinder and switch from the assembly, and used a chisel and hammer to drive the pin out the bottom. I did it just for you. (Actually it is another one, not the one pictured above. In the upper right, that is the pig tail I am talking about. There is 6 wires in it and two are already connected. I used the helms ETM when I wired it. Connect White, Black/Yellow, Black/Yellow and Orange all together, and White/Black, White/Red and Black/Red together.

robrob

Dude, you're the Man!

Thank you so much Strat,

The picture of both is exactly what I needed. It does look like I can drill out the plunger by drilling the golden round plug and pulling out the spring and plunger. Did you do anything to the anti-theft demobilizer so you can run it with no key in the ignition?

Do you mind If I use your pics in a how-to on my website?

Thanks again,

Rob

Stratocaster

Drilling and pulling the large round plug will let you drive the plugger up.


For me Immobilizer was not a problem. I have an AEM EMS, problem solved. However there are two black plugs around the lock assembly that are not shown above. One of the two is the Immobilizer receiver. As long as the key and receiver are together you are good.

I know there was to be a way to get around that, no one is posting that on the internet


Help your self with the pictures. Just send me a link.

robrob

I'm running the stock ecu so I have to keep the key & ignition switch. My plan is to cover the key in the ignition and leave it in the "run" position and use the kill switch as the "off" position. That way I don't have to worry about losing the key.

robrob

I ended up drilling out and removing the gold round cap, pulled out the spring, then epoxied the plunger in the down position.