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DIY brake ducting

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Old 02-17-2003, 10:57 AM
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Tedster,

bumper intake ducts are supposedly optimally positioned vertically to avoid "skimming" which the narrow C & T ducts could suffer from.....??
Old 02-17-2003, 01:00 PM
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It certainly 'feels right' to use the faux ducts for something, but I fear that it will be much harder to route the hose from there than underneath.
Old 02-17-2003, 05:56 PM
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Originally posted by Tedster
It certainly 'feels right' to use the faux ducts for something, but I fear that it will be much harder to route the hose from there than underneath.
You got that right about the difficulty, particularly on the left side, imo. Seems like the shape of the bumper will help deflect air into the faux duct area.
Old 02-18-2003, 09:08 AM
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I did mine over a year ago so most of the pics are gone (with photopoint) but I am convinced of the value. I did cut the ducts in the bumper because I don't like the fake look. If I had it to do again I would probably use 2.5" tubing instead of 3" since 225/16 at full turn can sometimes cut the tube. I did find that I liked the look after I installed grills on the openings and pick up fewer leaves and grasshoppers (since I left the vents in the backing plate they would stack up there).
Old 02-19-2003, 07:01 AM
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More brake duct pictures

www.nsxfiles.com/images2/brake_duct.jpg

www.nsxfiles.com/images2/brake_duct2.jpg


The hose in the front grill has a metal "flange/lip" at the end of it, with a couple of holes drilled in it, tie wrapped to the grill.

-Doug
Old 02-19-2003, 08:02 AM
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Does anyone know just how much air is pushed through the hoses at speeds? If it really ain't blowin hard what is the point.

I think it is important to have a larger opening feeding a smaller hose to get some volume and velocity going... Or use a blower to pull the air in.

Anyone done some testing??
Old 02-19-2003, 08:43 AM
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Chris,

Thanks for the info. Did you use a NACA duct or similar, or did you just run the hose to the opened faux duct? I need to clear 235/17 RA-1s; I think I'll be using 2" tubing! If you ever come up with some photos, please post 'em here.


Doug,

thanks for the additional photos. I'm including them here for easy viewing:





Here's what Tom Suchocki, Chief Engineer of C & T Automotive Engineering, said about their composite dust shield:
the biggest contribution this backshield makes vs. any of the other typical design is that the spout is formed from a 2 inch diameter circle to a 1.5 inch wide rectangle which forces the air to the eye of the rotor. This is the only way to get the maximum benefit of the incoming air flow. If the majority of the air hits braking surface, the boundary layer created on that surface will not allow great heat transfer. Worse yet that braking surface is smooth and polished, unlike the cast rough area where the vents are. The surface area of the vents greatly dominates the heat transfer of the rotor vs. the surface area of the braking surfaces. If you don't neck down the tubing some how, and just blow air at the rotor, there may be a propensity for un-even cooling.
I wonder if DIY brake ducts that aim at one side surface of the rotor are contributing to cracking rotors?


airsport,

I believe that Ultimate Lurker did some testing on the C&T duct kit, showing that it did reduce temperatures, but I can't find that thread right now. There is also anecdotal evidence from people who have done DIY ducts that their pads last longer.
Old 02-19-2003, 09:01 AM
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Here are some photos of the C & T kit for comparison. [Phil "Sideways", I hope you don't mind me reposting your pictures here.]





Old 02-19-2003, 09:09 AM
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BTW, two site sponsors, Coastal Metals and Grille-Tech, offer grilles for the faux duct openings, and Coastal Metals offers bracket attachments for theirs to allow attaching of hose.

As far as I know, no one is currently selling ducts nozzles, although I believe that Bulletproof Automotive used to sell carbon fibre ones.

Does anyone have any additional info on grilles or ducts/nozzles?
Old 02-19-2003, 09:39 AM
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Originally posted by Tedster
Chris,

Thanks for the info. Did you use a NACA duct or similar, or did you just run the hose to the opened faux duct? I need to clear 235/17 RA-1s; I think I'll be using 2" tubing! If you ever come up with some photos, please post 'em here.
I used some of the original Bulletproof CF ducts (imperfect seconds) that I cut to mate to the 3


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