cdelena

With good pads and cooling in the front they do their part so the rear does not get overheated although rear ducting would not hurt.

spider

[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]

Won't it just wear on the edges of the pipe now?

I was thinking the same thing about it wearing on the hose...

eukwasi

hecash

can you post some pics indicating your wheel housing panel entry point and routing

regards,
simpson

The Reverend

[QUOTE]Originally posted by hecash
[B]
The higher you can make the entry point through the wheel house panel, the farther away from the front tire's turn axis you can get the ducting to avoid tire rub on the ducting.

The Reverend

The only thing is, I need to worry about my CAI getting in the way. The tubing actually comes into the passenger side wheel well a little bit already... So that might keep me from mounting the tubing down low. I'll have to look everything over this weekend.

monkeymaker

You should route the ducting as high as you can; right above the CAI. No worries.

cdelena

[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]The only thing is, I need to worry about my CAI getting in the way.

Sideways

My 2" duct routes as low as possible, under the front innerliner, then rise infront of the swaybar.



I assume a lowered car would have problems with this setup but the stock height with 2" ducting has not been a problem.

cbender

Just wanted to thank all of you who contributed to this thread (and Harry who contributed lots of advice to me by PM and email) for sharing your experiences. I'm following Harry's basic approach -- NACA ducts mounted in the faux brake ducts to 3" silicone tubing, through the wheelwell -- but using The Reverend's hardware from Wick's to secure the ducting to the heatshield.

Best to all,
CB

Tedster

BTW, I finally did install some brake ducting. I went with 2" hose, on the theory that I'm not really overheating my brakes, and some cooling is better than none.

I used a 2" hole saw on the faux brake duct panels in the bumper and on the dust shields, and a 2.5" hole saw on the fender liner. I found some 2" aluminum vent duct flanges that were a perfect fit through the 2" holes and into the hose, and used worm-gear hose clamps to hold the hose onto them.

It took quite a bit of work to route the hoses just right to clear my 235 RA-1s; 3" hose might have been impossible for me. The right and left sides were slightly different.

I think I will eventually get a NACA duct to fill the entire faux brake duct openings and funnel more air into the hose.

Thanks again to everyone who posted ideas, tips, and pictures.

Ted