S2000 Racing and Competition The S2000 on the track and Solo circuit. Some of the fastest S2000 drivers in the world call this forum home.

DL1 sensor connections?

Thread Tools
 
Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:40 PM
  #11  
twohoos's Avatar
Member (Premium)
25 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,063
Likes: 364
From: Redondo Beach
Default

You can plot engine rpm vs GPS speed to see wheelspin.
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:46 PM
  #12  
cthree's Avatar
Thread Starter
Administrator
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 20,274
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, Canada
Default

well not exactly unless both back wheels are spinning but l'm not sure you learn much from knowing you are lifting an inside wheel because you generally feel it to know it anyway.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #13  
daverx7's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Default

Originally Posted by cthree,Jun 30 2006, 10:40 PM
Thanks guys!

I did eventually find the ECU wiring diagram in section 11 under Fuel and Emissions. What I have is:

MAP C17 (GRN/RED) 5v Manifold Absolute Pressure (?)
TPS C27 (RED/BLK) 5v Throttle Position (0.3V full close, 4.5V wide open)
VTS B12 (GRN/YEL) 5v VTEC Solenoid (on and off)
NEP A19 (BLU) 5v Tachometer (goes under the hood to test connector as davepk said, pulsed I think)
IAT C25 (RED/YEL) 5v Intake Air Temperature (0V -> 150C, 5V -> -20C)
ECT C26 (RED/WHT) 5v Engine Coolant Temperature (same as IAT)
VSS A9 (BLU/WHT) 5v Vehicle Speed Sensor (pulsed)

In addition there is a clutch pedal switch and a brake pedal switch which connect to the cruise control unit and the 4 ABS wheel speed sensors at each corner terminating at the ABS control module. I haven't looked closely at these and I'm not sure if I can use the wheel speed sensors on the DL1.
Sorry about bringing this thread back to life, but since I recently just purchased the MaxQData MQ200-RT and will be doing the install in the next week or so, I started digging into what I'm going to need to tap into, and came across this perfect thread.

With the MQ200-RT, I have 4 analog and 2 pulse inputs, and was thinking of getting the following data:
tps
vtec
map
brake (on/off... put prefer pressure/position)
rpm (pulse)
speed (pulse)

On 11-17 I saw in the service manual that it indicates a 12V (standard battery voltage) for vtec vs. 5V in this thread. Am I misreading this or am I looking at the wrong location? Since the MQ200-RT needs 5V, I sure hope that I missing something. Any help/clarification on this?

Also, just to share on this thread, on 11-16 indicates that the brake pedal position switch (white/black) is also 12V when the brake is pressed.

As always thanks for any help on this.

-Dave
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2007 | 05:22 PM
  #14  
cthree's Avatar
Thread Starter
Administrator
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 20,274
Likes: 4
From: Toronto, Canada
Default

The service manual will always trump this thread. If it says 12V then it is.

That said, the vtec signal is a waste of time. You should never leave vtec on the track so it doesn't offer any interesting information.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2007 | 05:30 PM
  #15  
jlucas's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 0
From: Delaware, OH
Default

Sorry, only DL1s work with the S2000.

On a more serious note... My guess is if your just looking for an on/off type signal like brake or VTEC, that the 12v is going to trigger it just fine. It will just peg the reading at your max allowed voltage without hurting anything. You can check with Ed (MaxQ, good guy) to be sure.

Personally I see no need to log VTEC. TPS, Brake & steering angle (requires additional sensor) should be your priority for your analogs. RPM & speed (preferably GPS) also.
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2007 | 05:58 AM
  #16  
daverx7's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Default

Originally Posted by cthree,Feb 15 2007, 09:22 PM
The service manual will always trump this thread. If it says 12V then it is.
Since I'm nowhere close to being a tech, I didn't know if I was looking at the wrong thing or misunderstanding it. I figured I'd better be safe than sorry.

Originally Posted by cthree,Feb 15 2007, 09:22 PM
That said, the vtec signal is a waste of time. You should never leave vtec on the track so it doesn't offer any interesting information.
Originally Posted by jlucas, Feb 15 2007, 9:30 PM
Personally I see no need to log VTEC. TPS, Brake & steering angle (requires additional sensor) should be your priority for your analogs. RPM & speed (preferably GPS) also.
This is great stuff, even more than I asked and likely would have eventually started another thread. Since we're going this direction, here is some background on what I am trying to do.

I'm starting my 3rd year autocrossing with the S2000 and wanted to step up my driving skills so I could potentially be competitive at the divisional level and respectable at my 1st attempt at Nationals. I figured that with feedback immediately after the runs, would help me at the current event, but being able to overlay the MQ200-RT data via Trackvision.net's dashboard program on my videos, would also let me know where I need to focus. (i.e. braking, not shifting where I should, falling out of VTEC, etc.) If you guys have better suggestions on what needs to be monitored for this situation, as Ross Perot would say, "I am all ears".

BTW, I have attended multiple Evolution Schools (Phase 1 and 2), but I am more of a "feel the car" type of driver. I find that sometimes I can get near the top in PAX while others, just in the top 10 or so. I am hoping that with the data on top of my videos would help me better understand why. Of course, there will be times where I still won't get it, and I can post it to folks like you guys to let me know what I am doing well and not so well.

Yes, I do know that this is likely to be overkill for autocrossing, but I do see that once I get my driving skills decent at the autocross, it will just make me a better driver and have some confidence at the track where the stakes are higher when there is a driver's error. Also, I would have a good data logger for that as well.

Originally Posted by jlucas, Feb 15 2007, 9:30 PM
My guess is if your just looking for an on/off type signal like brake or VTEC, that the 12v is going to trigger it just fine. It will just peg the reading at your max allowed voltage without hurting anything. You can check with Ed (MaxQ, good guy) to be sure.
These are valid points that it is an on/off indicator. I wanted to make sure I got my understanding right regarding the S2000, before bugging Ed. I really was hoping that I was just misinterpreting the manual. Since I'm getting the impression that I am not off base, I'll send him images of those pages and get is "okay" before I connect 12V where his unit is expecting 5V.

Thanks again to you guys, and look forward to being a good study.

-Dave
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2008 | 12:01 PM
  #17  
SC_Highlander's Avatar
Member (Premium)
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,784
Likes: 2
From: Greer, SC
Default

Bumping this thread for a little help. I found the red/black wire at c27 for the TPS, tapped into it and read .5 - 4.5v with my multimeter. Satisfied, I connected that to analog 1 on the dl1. I then found a white/black wire along the driver's side door sill that gets +12v when the brakes are pressed. I connected that to analog 2 on the dl1. I tapped the tach signal and connected it to the 'rpm/tach' input on the dl1.

When I fired up the car, I had no tach output on the gauge cluster. I unplugged my tach feed into the dl1 and the tach on the cluster began working properly. Also, in my logged data, both analog 1 and analog 2 are flat lines at zero. Any suggestions as to what I did wrong?
Reply
Old Sep 30, 2008 | 03:08 PM
  #18  
vjarnot's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,040
Likes: 2
From: Mathews, AL
Default

Originally Posted by SC_Highlander,Sep 30 2008, 02:01 PM
Bumping this thread for a little help. I found the red/black wire at c27 for the TPS, tapped into it and read .5 - 4.5v with my multimeter. Satisfied, I connected that to analog 1 on the dl1. I then found a white/black wire along the driver's side door sill that gets +12v when the brakes are pressed. I connected that to analog 2 on the dl1. I tapped the tach signal and connected it to the 'rpm/tach' input on the dl1.

When I fired up the car, I had no tach output on the gauge cluster. I unplugged my tach feed into the dl1 and the tach on the cluster began working properly. Also, in my logged data, both analog 1 and analog 2 are flat lines at zero. Any suggestions as to what I did wrong?
Sounds like a ground issue.
Reply
Old Oct 1, 2008 | 08:10 AM
  #19  
krazik's Avatar
Administrator
25 Year Member
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 17,004
Likes: 7
From: Santa Cruz, CA, US
Default

talk to Jeremy Lucas. They have a setup to fix it. It's a problem with that generation DL1.

Just remove the rpm wire from the DL1 in the mean time.
Reply
Old Oct 1, 2008 | 09:10 AM
  #20  
SC_Highlander's Avatar
Member (Premium)
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,784
Likes: 2
From: Greer, SC
Default

yeah, I removed the rpm wire. Still no joy from the analogs, though. I'll give Jeremy a shout.
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:01 PM.