VTECxTurbo,

The A.R.T. rotor held up very well. The rotor wear look normal no major grooves or uneven wear. Moreover, I suspect that the cyroed rotors reduce the max temps reach at the racetrack. I'll find out when I get cyroed rotors for the rear.

The XPs will not eat your rotors when cold, unlike the blues. I drove 260 miles one way to the track. No problems.

 

FYI, Carbotech now have their own cryo treatment equipment on-site. I'm sending them a full set of rotors for treatment very shortly. The price is competitive at $36 per rotor.

 

I don't believe the cryo treatment does anything but extend the rotor and pad life.. should have no affect on performance or heat management. I have the ART rotors without the slots, but next time I may buy stock rotors and get the cryo and plating from shops I know.. the cad plating on the ART rotors has not held up to track heating very well.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mikey
[B]FYI, Carbotech now have their own cryo treatment equipment on-site.

 

Chris is correct. Cryogenically treating a rotor will extend its wear life by approximately 100% in most cases I have seen. That is to say, your rotor should last twice as long as it otherwise would, all other things being equal (type of pad you use, the type of driving you do, etc.). A cryogenically treated rotor is also less prone to warping and/or cracking. You want to start with a brand new, never used, high-quality rotor - at minimum, and OEM Honda rotor, though the ART rotors or Brembo rotors certainly qualify!

With Best Regards,

Andie Lin

 

Nice of you to drop by...

OK, so that means the reduction in max temp for the front is due to the shield removal alone.

 

Nothing better to do at 10pm in between study chapters for my MBA... :-) And I like answering questions about things I have at least a clue about (or think I have a clue about...depends on who you ask...).

Yes, for the most part.

The other part is that with the XP, after it has heated up, you have much greater stopping power over the P+, and thus you can complete you braking in a shorter distance, within the range of grip of your tires. Therefore, you actually have the brakes applied for a shorter period of time, and while you may be subjecting the rotor to higher inter-facial temperatures (the shear area between the pad and the rotor), since the contact time between the pad and the rotor is reduced, there is less time available for heat to be transferred into the rotor. Once you let go of the brake pedal, the rotor will begin to cool...and most of the heat is present near the surface of the rotor, and can be wept off before it is absorbed further into the rotor metal itself, or travel radially inward toward the hub.

But, ultimately, the rotor shield removal was probably your largest factor in cooling here.

HTH... -Andie

 

Glad to see people agreeing that dust shields do not promote cooling. ( We have been saying this for over a year)
We have a # 3 pad that you can use on the track and drive on the street and it won't eat up regular rotors . It does dust and some squeal , but it stops the same , cold or hot. ( plus they are made for the S-2000)

brad

Rick's Accessories

 

BBSpoon:

Also, depending on when you ordered your Panther XP's, you either received version XP-1 or version XP-2. These are not official brand names just yet, but are our internal method of identifying the pad materials.

Both versions are far stronger than the Panther Plus. However, XP-1 is 20-25% better the P+, and XP-2 is 35%+ better, in terms of stopping power. If you are curious as to which version you received, give me an invoice number via e-mail and I can look it up. Rec'd setups for the S2000 are:

P+ FRONT / P+ REAR
XP-1 FRONT / P+ REAR
XP-2 FRONT / XP-1 REAR

I feel that P+ FRONT / P+ REAR is sufficient for most of our S2000 customers, especially if they want the best cold stopping power available in a "dual-purpose" pad for when they drive on the street. XP-1 FRONT / P+ REAR and XP-2 FRONT / XP-1 REAR setups really should only be used with r-compound tires, though you can get away with the former setup without terribly upsetting the ABS under hard braking if you run a max-performance street tire such as the Bridgestone S-02 or S-03 PP's, Yokohama AVS Sport, Michelin Pilot Sport, or Toyo Proxes T1-S.

HTH... -Andie

 

I am interested to hear of Chris' results from testing (when he gets a set) the #3 BrakeMan compound against the Porterfield R4 and the Panther XP. The reason is...I suspect that the #3 compound is manufactured by Kerr Friction of Canton Ohio, which is the same company that makes the Porterfield R4, R4S, and R4E for Porterfield. Now, for the record, I don't _know_ this for a fact...I just _suspect_ this is the case...so that is why I am interested in any test results relating the 2 compounds.

-Andie