I'll be installing some kind of ducting this month and ran across this site and was wondering if you guys think that this way would be a better way to duct air than the faux ducts, considering that the 04' faux ducts are rather small. I don't really have any qualms about cutting up my bumper either.

The example shows the ducts on the side of the bumper, and I know we don't really have a side bumper on the front so I don't know if the location is an issue.

 

You will have much better pressure recovery on the front of the bumper.

 

Yeah....the ducts in that picture will do basically nothing. The best placement for ducts on any car will be at the front of the bumper. The farther you get away from that the less effective they are. With that said, the faux ducts in the AP1 S2000s still work fairly well as a source for cold air. Keep in mind that some of the fastest S2000s on the West Coast don't even run ducting.....

 

It's hard to say how well they will work without accurate models and/or wind tunnel testing. I'd like to see someone put sensors in their ducts to measure air speed and pressure but so far I haven't seen it. Most of the "evidence" in support of brake ducting is anecdotal. Many have said that removng the dust shields has some benefit yet these people also say they have fade problems while I have no fade issues and mine are stock.

If you do install ducts do not use ghetto U bolts and do not vent the air to the entire rotor surface. You want the air to flow to the center of the rotor so it can be pushed/pulled through the vented rotors. You do not want to cool only one side of the rotor surface as you will crack them. You also want to fit adjustable gates to allow you to control how much air you are forcing into them. You'll want a couple of levels between max and none.

I haven't done ducting mainly because I have no way to know how much air I am delivering nor what temperatures the rotors are running at. I'm not a strong believer in out-my-ass science. If you can measure bake surface temps and preferably log the data then you can get some idea of how much or how little additional cooling you require for a given track and weather condition. Unless you measure it and unless you can control it you are basically saying more is better which may not be the case.

 

Here's the data I already have-

Cobalt Spec VR down to 4mm after 200 track miles, and durring those track miles I would pit with smoke coming from the front brakes.

I don't recall how many miles others are getting on these pads on a course with a few high speed braking zones, but I've averaged 100 miles each track day and I don't want to have to replace the front brake pads every 3rd event.

 

Check C & T Auto Engineering. He sells a ducting kit for the S-2000. They are listed in the racing Fax and Their web site is: www.ctautoengineering.com
I bought their system and am getting better life out of my spec VR pads.