I daily drive a tuned E92 335i that has gobs of torque but I really prefer driving my CR at the limit, it handles a LOT better and is way more fun to drive. Once I added an intake, header, and exhaust (with high flow cat) and got tuned with Hondata FlashPro my CR became a whole new beast. It added around 25whp throughout the midrange and another 10 up top. This really changed the car from feeling gutless down low to being a pleasure to drive around on the street or at AutoX. It's a really fun car that is pretty cheap to mod and maintain, I think you'd grow to love it. I can't even remember all the things that have broken on my E92... but I haven't had a single issue with my S2000. An E36 is closer to an S2000 than my E92 though, so you might not appreciate the difference as much as me.


I like my E92, I love my CR.

 

TROLLLLOLOLOLOLLOL

 

An S2000 will happily walk away from a Z3 3.0

 

seems like z3 owners agree (with a bunch saying s2000 > z3m) : http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-vs-2007-S2000

 

A buddy of mine with a similarly prepped ap2 is doing 1:38's at homestead with the banking. It's all in your head

 

Make sure you warm up the engine before trying to VTEC....

 

1. Front control arms is also an issue on the later years. If you race and run race tires it is a weak point period.

2. Burning oil - I burn zero oil at 104k and I use Mobile 1. I think this is more of an issue of people wanting to get 4k, 5k, 6k, and up out of oil changes. People think because they use synthetic it should go forever. I was a Honda tech and have owned 40 plus cars. If you beat on them and change oil later than 3k most all cars will burn oil. I maintain my neighbors 04 S2000 and his burns any oil before 3k and it only has 70k miles. I have tried Royal Purple, Mobile 1, and Amsoil. He burns them all.

3. Again, I have no Syncro issues at all at 104k. If you cant drive you will ruin an AP1 or AP2.

4. Diff, I am still on the original diff and it could die any minute. That said I see tons of people looking for both the AP1 and AP2 diffs. The AP2 diff may be better but again people still blow up the AP2 diff. This is a track car he is looking for and a spare diff is a must with either the AP1 or AP2.

5. Retainers, ok so if you miss shift you will crack a retainer and the AP2 has better retainers. True but it is less than a $100.00 fix and a few hours worth of work. Buy AP2 retainers and call it a day.

6. I have no cracks in my window and it is the original top. Is it perfect heck no. You can see in my pictures that my top is nice. I can also say that the 04 and up cars seem to have more issues with holes in the tops than the original design. Like I said I have the original top. I have already replaced my neighbors top on his 04 with 70k. Again this will be a track car and more than likely the top will be replaced with a hard top! If not he can replace it with the glass window top when needed. It is not much more work or cost to upgrade it to an AP2 top and most of the AP2 folks are buying replacement tops anyways.


I have less in my car and mods than what his 15k budget is for just a car. Almost all of my mods is what any track day guy would do with the addition of the needed safety stuff. The Ap1 is a great car and if you look you can find a clean one for 8k. That is a whole lot of go fast parts to get you to 15k vs buying an AP2 and still needing all the fun stuff. Plus for 15k you will only get the 04 - 05 which once you mod it will not net you a noticeable power difference over a similar prepped AP1.

 

LOL @ Nick ! how long you been waiting to use that?

 

So did he buy the car?

 

I will see you at Blackhawk Farms Raceway on the memorial day weekend LOL