F24 stroker kit for race use
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Mom!!! The Meatloaf!!
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Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
I run in TT3, but if you want to compete you really need a detuned car preferably with DBW like the BMWs and Corvettes.
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Mom!!! The Meatloaf!!
detune in TT3? I'm not even close in TT3 lol but was still competitive in that class that day. I wasn't running Hoosiers but was off 3 seconds from 1st place. Barely missed podium. I'll need to take off some parts but i hope TT4 has a good turn out
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Fort Walton Beach, FL
What I am saying is it would be better to detune and run in TT5 or TT4 then to not be at the limit or be barely at the limit even with the average whp calculations. Flat horsepower still rules in NASA TT.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,695
Likes: 13
From: Mom!!! The Meatloaf!!
got ya. I'll run some events and see what the competition looks like. If I nees to adjust I will. Otherwise don't want to make changes I don't need to. Thanks for the heads up
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 528
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Yeah f20kills used AP1 pistons which are 13:1, I used AP2 pistons which are 12:1. I didn't trust 13:1 with pump gas. With the CNC 2.4 kit my 2002 AP1's HP/TQ went from 215/129 to 258/192.
As for how to keep the car cool (as asked earlier in this thread): I upgraded to the mishimoto rad, 1.3bar koyo cap, mishimoto oil cooler, and mugen thermostat (with 3 extra small holes drilled in to more easily open). I also had my engine builder notch the bottom of my pistons to allow the AP2 banjo bolts and oil jets to be used. I also had my piston domes ceramic coated by Swaintech using their "GoldCoat". As a result I hope/think my car will stay quite cool on the track -- but it takes a while to warm up on the street.
As for how to keep the car cool (as asked earlier in this thread): I upgraded to the mishimoto rad, 1.3bar koyo cap, mishimoto oil cooler, and mugen thermostat (with 3 extra small holes drilled in to more easily open). I also had my engine builder notch the bottom of my pistons to allow the AP2 banjo bolts and oil jets to be used. I also had my piston domes ceramic coated by Swaintech using their "GoldCoat". As a result I hope/think my car will stay quite cool on the track -- but it takes a while to warm up on the street.
Last edited by snitm; Feb 28, 2017 at 12:15 PM.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,695
Likes: 13
From: Mom!!! The Meatloaf!!
Yeah f20kills used AP1 pistons which are 13:1, I used AP2 pistons which are 12:1. I didn't trust 13:1 with pump gas. With the CNC 2.4 kit my 2002 AP1's HP/TQ went from 215/129 to 258/192.
As for how to keep the car cool (as asked earlier in this thread): I upgraded to the mishimoto rad, 1.3bar koyo cap, mishimoto oil cooler, and mugen thermostat (with 3 extra small holes drilled in to more easily open). I also had my engine builder notch the bottom of my pistons to allow the AP2 banjo bolts and oil jets to be used. As a result I hope/think my car will stay quite cool on the track -- but it takes a while to warm up on the street.
As for how to keep the car cool (as asked earlier in this thread): I upgraded to the mishimoto rad, 1.3bar koyo cap, mishimoto oil cooler, and mugen thermostat (with 3 extra small holes drilled in to more easily open). I also had my engine builder notch the bottom of my pistons to allow the AP2 banjo bolts and oil jets to be used. As a result I hope/think my car will stay quite cool on the track -- but it takes a while to warm up on the street.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 528
Likes: 16
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,724
Likes: 42
From: Orlando
Yeah f20kills used AP1 pistons which are 13:1, I used AP2 pistons which are 12:1. I didn't trust 13:1 with pump gas. With the CNC 2.4 kit my 2002 AP1's HP/TQ went from 215/129 to 258/192.
As for how to keep the car cool (as asked earlier in this thread): I upgraded to the mishimoto rad, 1.3bar koyo cap, mishimoto oil cooler, and mugen thermostat (with 3 extra small holes drilled in to more easily open). I also had my engine builder notch the bottom of my pistons to allow the AP2 banjo bolts and oil jets to be used. I also had my piston domes ceramic coated by Swaintech using their "GoldCoat". As a result I hope/think my car will stay quite cool on the track -- but it takes a while to warm up on the street.
As for how to keep the car cool (as asked earlier in this thread): I upgraded to the mishimoto rad, 1.3bar koyo cap, mishimoto oil cooler, and mugen thermostat (with 3 extra small holes drilled in to more easily open). I also had my engine builder notch the bottom of my pistons to allow the AP2 banjo bolts and oil jets to be used. I also had my piston domes ceramic coated by Swaintech using their "GoldCoat". As a result I hope/think my car will stay quite cool on the track -- but it takes a while to warm up on the street.
2.0 to a 2.35 is a 17.7% increase. Compression went from 11.8 to 12.0 so thats a 1% increase. 215whp x 1.177 = 253whp, So the compression bump and fresher motor is the other 5hp. So right in the expected margins.
I also did the swain tech coatings on this motor and I can't get the thing to run warm enough. It wants to drive around all the time with the thermostat closed. It opens for a moment and pumps the cold water from the radiator through it and goes back into cold running mode. Thing produces no heat. Revised the thermostat setup and put a much smaller radiator in it now. I'll know soon how it is.
Last edited by Mrsideways; Feb 28, 2017 at 12:47 PM.