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F24 stroker kit for race use

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Old 06-16-2015, 10:11 AM
  #11  

 
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you added a few more things while I was responding, but I know nothing about his rules he needs to follow

He wants 270WHP and a lot of the stuff you are mentioning is waaaaaaay beyond what is needed to get there. Wadziis kit was $1100...build was $1800 for me and if you can do your own motor install better otherwise motor install can run an added 2k+. Now, if you want to spend 30k to get 270WHP its definitely doable lol but its not necessary.

My car has stock bore. The only things that were changed really were the crank and rods. Thats it. I do use a 8lb flywheel.

Apparently 3.5" intake does wonders for this car. That will get this 2.4 to 270whp as in the link I posted.
Old 06-16-2015, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by miamirice
It would not be built for HC1. It would be for FARA (1.8-2.5L) NA. I think it fits STU with SCCA as well. But none of this matters if it won't have the reliability of a motor like a k24 or k20 with cams which seem to hold up very well.
FARA? Really? Do they have any rules of note? Any restrictions on wheel or tire size? On wings? On weight? On the engine other than NA and 2.5L?
Old 06-16-2015, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Originally Posted by miamirice' timestamp='1434451944' post='23649763

It would not be built for HC1. It would be for FARA (1.8-2.5L) NA. I think it fits STU with SCCA as well. But none of this matters if it won't have the reliability of a motor like a k24 or k20 with cams which seem to hold up very well.
FARA? Really? Do they have any rules of note? Any restrictions on wheel or tire size? On wings? On weight? On the engine other than NA and 2.5L?

http://www.farausa.com

http://www.farausa.com/race-info/race-forms-rules/

It's what's been fun and has a good turn out where I live. The enduros are 1.6 miatas- Daytona prototypes (9 classes I think). We even get a bunch of European teams that put down there own flooring and bring there own umbrella girls LOL, so you can imagine what a show it is. Outside of this I think spec Miata or STL is the only reasonable turn out where I am.

Motor swaps need to be the same manufacturer. There are 300hp b18c5's- plenty of people who will out spend me.
Old 06-16-2015, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by miamirice
Originally Posted by DavidNJ' timestamp='1434478330' post='23650194
[quote name='miamirice' timestamp='1434451944' post='23649763']
It would not be built for HC1. It would be for FARA (1.8-2.5L) NA. I think it fits STU with SCCA as well. But none of this matters if it won't have the reliability of a motor like a k24 or k20 with cams which seem to hold up very well.
FARA? Really? Do they have any rules of note? Any restrictions on wheel or tire size? On wings? On weight? On the engine other than NA and 2.5L?

http://www.farausa.com

http://www.farausa.c...ce-forms-rules/

It's what's been fun and has a good turn out where I live. The enduros are 1.6 miatas- Daytona prototypes (9 classes I think). We even get a bunch of European teams that put down there own flooring and bring there own umbrella girls LOL, so you can imagine what a show it is. Outside of this I think spec Miata or STL is the only reasonable turn out where I am.

Motor swaps need to be the same manufacturer. There are 300hp b18c5's- plenty of people who will out spend me.
[/quote]

I had seen that...there didn't seem to be much in the way of rules. In a 4 hour race a few set of fresh tires are probably worth more than the extra power. And without rules restricting it you could run wide fenders and wide rims. Race tires? And then they race at night so lots of LED or laser headlights (rob a BMW i8?) It sounds like an bottomless money pit.

Otherwise it sounds more as if you have a car prepared for another class of racing and just bring it. Fresh tires and serious aero (rear wing and front spliter or front wing) would have more impact. In a Florida summer maybe a refrigerated cool vest and helmet air. An SCCA STU could have some of that.
Old 06-16-2015, 01:37 PM
  #15  

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Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Originally Posted by miamirice' timestamp='1434479984' post='23650237
[quote name='DavidNJ' timestamp='1434478330' post='23650194']
[quote name='miamirice' timestamp='1434451944' post='23649763']
It would not be built for HC1. It would be for FARA (1.8-2.5L) NA. I think it fits STU with SCCA as well. But none of this matters if it won't have the reliability of a motor like a k24 or k20 with cams which seem to hold up very well.
FARA? Really? Do they have any rules of note? Any restrictions on wheel or tire size? On wings? On weight? On the engine other than NA and 2.5L?

http://www.farausa.com

http://www.farausa.c...ce-forms-rules/

It's what's been fun and has a good turn out where I live. The enduros are 1.6 miatas- Daytona prototypes (9 classes I think). We even get a bunch of European teams that put down there own flooring and bring there own umbrella girls LOL, so you can imagine what a show it is. Outside of this I think spec Miata or STL is the only reasonable turn out where I am.

Motor swaps need to be the same manufacturer. There are 300hp b18c5's- plenty of people who will out spend me.
[/quote]

I had seen that...there didn't seem to be much in the way of rules. In a 4 hour race a few set of fresh tires are probably worth more than the extra power. And without rules restricting it you could run wide fenders and wide rims. Race tires? And then they race at night so lots of LED or laser headlights (rob a BMW i8?) It sounds like an bottomless money pit.

Otherwise it sounds more as if you have a car prepared for another class of racing and just bring it. Fresh tires and serious aero (rear wing and front spliter or front wing) would have more impact. In a Florida summer maybe a refrigerated cool vest and helmet air. An SCCA STU could have some of that.
[/quote]

Only 1 night event. Cool suit a must. Already have that from chumpcar. I have got 19 enduros under my belt, all 14-24 hour and yes it's won by staying out there the full 2 hours before mandatory stop, and great pit strategy + some luck. Teams in my category faster than a stockish s2000 and many with dry break fueling systems. I will just do modified dump jugs that I have for chump. You can pour 5 gallons in like 17 seconds. Car is set up with aero, Susp.....everything but a motor. I need a durable motor but like I said, since the one I have has a spun bearing, now I need to figure out what to rebuild with.
Old 06-16-2015, 01:48 PM
  #16  

 
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My first thought is your not going to be able to run much RPM on Track. I'd venture a guess at 7800 ish. From what I understand the cylinder wear goes up significantly with piston speed on the S2000 blocks. Anything over 8300 continually on a 2.2 will wear the motor quickly. I was doing 8600rpm on the 2.2 and it was about 1 season before the motor showed signs for being down on power. I'd guess the extra side loading on the pistons from the 2.4 would accelerate that rapidly. Just a guess, not science here. I limited the K24 to 8100. So I'll do leak downs regularly and see how long before it starts to fail. (hopefully not right away)
Old 06-16-2015, 02:08 PM
  #17  
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The biggest issue you'll have with one of our kits on an endurance car is the extremely tight piston-wall clearance they run and the compression. Keeping coolant temps low is key and a spot on tune is also key.

With a custom piston the compression can be dialed down and would require the use of a sleeved block which will hold its shape better than a stock block and allow it to be run a little "looser"

With stock intake manifold and stock cams the 2.4L s2000 motor wont make power much past 8000 so the revs wouldnt be an issue.

For sort of a reference I did some work for HA tuning their grandam cup TSX about 7-8 years ago, they were running that motor to 8500 with all stock internals. Those motors lasted a long time.

We are playing with the idea of having some custom mahle pistons made with the rings moved down 0.100 from their shelf design and a 3.5cc dome which will get the compression down to 11.5-12:1 and work in the stock sleeves.

our 2.4 stroker rod is only 0.260" shorter than a k24 rod
Old 06-16-2015, 02:11 PM
  #18  

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Originally Posted by Mrsideways
My first thought is your not going to be able to run much RPM on Track. I'd venture a guess at 7800 ish. From what I understand the cylinder wear goes up significantly with piston speed on the S2000 blocks. Anything over 8300 continually on a 2.2 will wear the motor quickly. I was doing 8600rpm on the 2.2 and it was about 1 season before the motor showed signs for being down on power. I'd guess the extra side loading on the pistons from the 2.4 would accelerate that rapidly. Just a guess, not science here. I limited the K24 to 8100. So I'll do leak downs regularly and see how long before it starts to fail. (hopefully not right away)
You think the closed deck inserts they do will negate this if I got it sleeved and block gaurd?
Old 06-16-2015, 02:14 PM
  #19  

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Originally Posted by wadzii
The biggest issue you'll have with one of our kits on an endurance car is the extremely tight piston-wall clearance they run and the compression. Keeping coolant temps low is key and a spot on tune is also key.

With a custom piston the compression can be dialed down and would require the use of a sleeved block which will hold its shape better than a stock block and allow it to be run a little "looser"

With stock intake manifold and stock cams the 2.4L s2000 motor wont make power much past 8000 so the revs wouldnt be an issue.

For sort of a reference I did some work for HA tuning their grandam cup TSX about 7-8 years ago, they were running that motor to 8500 with all stock internals. Those motors lasted a long time.

We are playing with the idea of having some custom mahle pistons made with the rings moved down 0.100 from their shelf design and a 3.5cc dome which will get the compression down to 11.5-12:1 and work in the stock sleeves.

our 2.4 stroker rod is only 0.260" shorter than a k24 rod
Interesting. I will say my mechanical skills are low compared to most of the folks chiming in here, but I love the knowledge. I also have read the coolant temps for the F motor are not a huge issue but the Oil temp on this motor is the killer.
Old 06-16-2015, 02:20 PM
  #20  

 
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For reference my coolant Temps never go over 194 with Mrsideways radiator. Mild Temps ~80. Great radiator.


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