Handling Issue Help

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Oct 3, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #11  
Bill, your settings look pretty good but you could try adding rebound in the rear by one or two clicks. It sounds like your V3s have the new 8 click per turn compression wheel adjusters. I'd suggest 4 to 5 clicks of compression front and rear (around 1/2 turn out from full stiff) and use the same setting for compression front and rear.
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Oct 3, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #12  
They are the new style and have 12 clicks (two full turns - 6 clicks per turn) of compression adjustment in front and 18 (three full turns) in the rear. Note, the KW setting guide does not indicate this difference between front and rear, but it is there. Clubsport Setting Guide

Regarding the recommended adjustments, I was thinking along the same lines - dial in a couple of clicks of rebound, see what that does, then perhaps dial out a couple of clicks of compression to see what that does. Pacific is not as smooth as the Ridge, so I may need to do this anyway. Would trying the rear bump a couple of clicks softer than the front make any sense? I'm thinking it would allow quicker weight transfer to the rear on corner exit while slowing transfer to the front under braking. I guess the downside might be corner entry as the car could take a set more quickly in the rear making it trend toward oversteer at turn in - true?

Thanks again for the advice!
-Bill
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Oct 3, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #13  
I think you have the right idea Bill, make small changes (one at a time) and see what effect they have until the car is where you'd like it to be. Be patient, as it may take time.
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Oct 3, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #14  
Quote: The car was recently aligned/corner balanced by a local race shop (all measurements in degrees):
Camber -2.3 (f) -2.8 ®
Caster 6.5
Toe 0.0 (f) .26 ® (.13 each side)



Am I on the right track? Any other thoughts?
You are showing 0.26 rear toe. Is this toe in or out? If toe out, that may explain the twitchiness.
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Oct 3, 2012 | 05:15 PM
  #15  
It's toe in.
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Oct 3, 2012 | 07:17 PM
  #16  
Quote: It's toe in.
Rob, it was clear that you are running toe-in, but it was not clear that Bill is running toe-in, from what was posted. Just wanted to make sure that something simple was not overlooked.
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Oct 4, 2012 | 03:57 AM
  #17  
Using a softer rear spring will help.

Or starting with lower rear tire pressure, stiffening front compression and increasing rear rebound, or increasing the front ride height slightly.

Any combination of things that makes the weight transfer a touch less.
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Oct 4, 2012 | 05:12 AM
  #18  
Quote:
Would trying the rear bump a couple of clicks softer than the front make any sense? I'm thinking it would allow quicker weight transfer to the rear on corner exit while slowing transfer to the front under braking. I guess the downside might be corner entry as the car could take a set more quickly in the rear making it trend toward oversteer at turn in - true?
The compression adjustment is mainly used for controlling how the suspension handles bumps on the track, I think that's why it's also called the "bump" adjustment. Rebound is the primary adjustment to control weight transfer and KW and most racers agree that less rebound is needed in the rear of the S2000. KW's recommendations for the S2000 are 0.75 turns out of compression at all 4 corners, but rebound is 0.75 front and 1.5 rear. Going softer on rebound in the rear would allow more weight transfer to the front tires under braking and trail braking turn-in so yes the rear end would be more prone to over steer at turn-in but you can reach a nice balance for your style of trail braking to dial out the S2000's tendency of turn-in under steer.

I believe the main reason less rebound is needed in the rear is high speed lift at the rear of the car which effectively reduces the rear spring rate.

Rebound settings are dependent on your driving skill, style, track, tires, suspension, aero . . .
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Oct 4, 2012 | 09:55 AM
  #19  
Quote:
You are showing 0.26 rear toe. Is this toe in or out? If toe out, that may explain the twitchiness.
It is toe in. However, I am going to check this myself this weekend to see if anything has changed. I may also put a jack under the diff and raise it slightly to see if I can get a clue as to what's happening dynamically.

Quote:
Using a softer rear spring will help.
Or starting with lower rear tire pressure, stiffening front compression and increasing rear rebound, or increasing the front ride height slightly.
Any combination of things that makes the weight transfer a touch less.
Since adjusting front compression and rear rebound are easiest to do at the track, I think I'll start there along with some adjustment to my driving style.

Quote:
The compression adjustment is mainly used for controlling how the suspension handles bumps on the track, I think that's why it's also called the "bump" adjustment.
Rob, I was under the impression that bumps were handled by the high speed compression features of the shock and what is adjustble (on the KWs at least) is the low speed dampening which controls more of the weight transfer during acceleration, braking and cornering. Regardless, I'll probably focus initially on rear rebound then play with compression front and rear to try to get the balance I'm looking for.

I want to thank you guys for your input. It seems like consesus is that the most likely cause of what I'm feeling is an abrupt unloading of the rear. This may be exacerbated by worn bushings or rear toe that has gone out of whack. I think this gives me a good place to start and some ideas I can put into play at the track next Friday. Ultimately, I may need rear aero as Rob pointed out in his first reply but I think it is worth trying to adjust as much out as possible before I go that route.
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Oct 4, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #20  
At 100+mph, that small lip splitter is having an effect. IMO, my easiest option is to remove the splitter.
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