robrob

Here's my info on the S2000 roll centers and how to install the adjusters: http://robrobinette.com/S2000RollCenters.htm

Bullwings

Well, I did write a mini-review, but it kind of got lost at the very bottom of a page 2 or something.

Anyway, first thing is first for those of you that have ordered. FYI, the bolts that come with it are junk. Go get yourself some true grade 10 or grade 10.9 bolts. The bolts should have a number stamped at the top of them indicating the strength and quality. If there's no number, it's junk. Also, the bolt should NOT have a built in "teeth" locking ring in the base of the head, if it does, it's junk. Anyway, those are minor things. I went and picked up some grade 10.9 bolts and a separate (not built in) the micro teeth locking ring (similar to what brembo uses). The density of the bolts were so vastly different, that i could feel the weight difference between the supplied bolts and the grade 10.9 bolts that i bought. Do yourself a favor and get some grade 10+ bolts. It cost me $5 for a set of bolts and locking rings.

On to the actual product itself. I got these installed and had an alignment done (I had the roll center plates installed too). I'm running all stock suspension at the stock ride height. I was able to get 6.0 castor (could have gotten more) and -2.4 camber up front (could have also gotten more, but don't need it). Between this part and replacing my RE050s with RE-11s, I was able to shave about 5 seconds off of my lap times at Buttonwillow CW13 in 100+F degree weather (I actually put my fastest times down in my third and fourth sessions at around 2pm-4pm). Lap times went from 2:20.9xx to 2:15.7xx.

Overall I'm happy with the product. My tire/alignment/do everything guy thinks the ball joint itself is good quality stuff, just that the supplied bolts are junk. Time will tell how well these hold up, I just hope I don't found out in a less than pleasant way (i.e. while in turns 1+2 at ACS, riverside at BW, or pretty much anywhere at WSIR).

ummpwr

I have received my camber joints part #6621 I am lowered on bc coils currently maxed at 1.7 camber I'm looking to get around 3deg . I do not have to worry about str rules so should I install the extra spacer that it comes with the joint? If I do can I get the camber I need ?

Thanks Eric

PilotSH

If you aren't going to run in STR, then yes, you should install the spacers. They allow the roll center to be adjusted more favorably to compensate for lowering the car. The plates don't have any effect on the camber though. The actual joint is offset, which is what provides the added camber. To ensure that you are installing the joint correctly, draw imaginary lines connecting the mount holes and the balljoint stud. It should form a triangle. The "tip" of the triangle (the ball joint) should face inwards, toward the engine. Hope that helps.

James

ummpwr

Thanks you answered my question exactly, cant wait to feel the camber!

robrob

Quote:

The "tip" of the triangle (the ball joint) should face inwards, toward the engine.

Shouldn't the "tip" face outwards, to move the ball joint outwards, to lean the wheel inward for more negative camber?

//steve\\

^nope. Pilot is right. It seems backwards but he's right. If you want to think of it in another way think of where the balljoint connects to the control arm. With stock they are all in a straight line. If you didn't move the ball joint the only other way to go the bottom of the hub to come out is the move where it attaches to the hub farther outward which is exactly what you're doing.

See my terrible MS paint drawing below. Blue circle represents the ball joint, red line is the hub. Left image is stock, right is with offset ball joint. See at the bottom of the image I've drawn the above view. The green dots represent the attachment points. You'll see on the right bottom one how if you connected the dots it make a triangle that points in towards the car.

I had the J's ones on my first s2k and it took us a minute when installing them to visualize which way was correct.

robrob

Thanks, I see now. I wasn't taking into account that the lower ball joint is "upside down" compared to the upper ball joints. After looking at the picture below I realized I was thinking of the ball joint being bolted to the lower control arm, not "upside down" on the knuckle. Thanks for the correction and illustration.

ummpwr

So I installed the hardrace camber joints with the roll center spacers tonight and then went for a test drive (before alighnment)... Well my front end has a very delayed response, feels like its floating.

Any Ideas? think i just need an alignment now, could the roll center spacers have given be a bunch of toe out and causing it to feel as if its floating and delayed response ? I was thinking the joints should give me more neg. camber right out of the box and it would not feel a lot worse ?

Thanks, Eric

macr88

You're running tons of toe in. The knuckle got pushed out and you did nothing to the tie rod to match.