I think I warped a rotor
Was at CMP all sunday, on the last run I was out for about 30mins braking realy hard. I have the ATE blue fluid in there and Ferodo pads which were on their last legs. Noticed a vibration under braking that got worse. I stopped and used mostly engine braking all the way home.
Just changed out my pads for the stock ones and the vibration is there still under medium > hard braking, seems to be coming from the front left I couldn't be sure. The rotors look ok but there are definitely some heat marks or something.
Before I buy new front rotors is there anything else I should check?
maybe a stupid question is it safe to drive? auto-x?
Just changed out my pads for the stock ones and the vibration is there still under medium > hard braking, seems to be coming from the front left I couldn't be sure. The rotors look ok but there are definitely some heat marks or something.
Before I buy new front rotors is there anything else I should check?
maybe a stupid question is it safe to drive? auto-x?
Per the recommendation of others who frequent this forum, that rotor is likely shot. Could be pad deposits or warping that are causing the vibration... either way it will need to be replaced before any hard driving.
Maybe, maybe not.
Often when you switch pads there is a minor vibration issue as the pads and the rotors marry to each other. If it goes away, this may be all it is. If it gets worse, time for new rotors.
Eventually I ended up swapping rotors as well as pads when I was doing the street/track thing. It was more work, but at least it contained the track issues to the track.
Often when you switch pads there is a minor vibration issue as the pads and the rotors marry to each other. If it goes away, this may be all it is. If it gets worse, time for new rotors.
Eventually I ended up swapping rotors as well as pads when I was doing the street/track thing. It was more work, but at least it contained the track issues to the track.
Originally Posted by mikegarrison,Dec 9 2008, 03:34 PM
Maybe, maybe not.
Often when you switch pads there is a minor vibration issue as the pads and the rotors marry to each other. If it goes away, this may be all it is. If it gets worse, time for new rotors.
Eventually I ended up swapping rotors as well as pads when I was doing the street/track thing. It was more work, but at least it contained the track issues to the track.
Often when you switch pads there is a minor vibration issue as the pads and the rotors marry to each other. If it goes away, this may be all it is. If it gets worse, time for new rotors.
Eventually I ended up swapping rotors as well as pads when I was doing the street/track thing. It was more work, but at least it contained the track issues to the track.
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Second the double checking for cracks. Stock rotors are easily and often cracked by people tracking this car and a small crack can present as a vibration.
I have to disagree with those who say rotors don't warp, that's just rubbish. In fact we've all seen (most insist) the use of torque wrenches while tightening your lug nuts. The only real purpose to this is to ensure that you evenly torque all your bolts as you will warp your rotors by very unevenly tightening the lug nuts and then add heat.
I have to disagree with those who say rotors don't warp, that's just rubbish. In fact we've all seen (most insist) the use of torque wrenches while tightening your lug nuts. The only real purpose to this is to ensure that you evenly torque all your bolts as you will warp your rotors by very unevenly tightening the lug nuts and then add heat.






