J's S1 Troubleshooting Help
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Joined: Jul 2012
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J's S1 Troubleshooting Help
I posted this in the under the hood forum, but travis suggested that I move it to the R&C forum.
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This is a js s1 balljoint on an 08 cr.
The joint was installed in November with approximately 2k miles on it and maybe 4 track days.
The wet look was from spray brake cleaner but it is not leaking grease
The mounted corner takes considerable effort to bivot while the opposite side with no excessive squealing pivots easily.
What do you guys think?
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXGzu8X2pzw&feature=youtu.be[/media]
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This is a js s1 balljoint on an 08 cr.
The joint was installed in November with approximately 2k miles on it and maybe 4 track days.
The wet look was from spray brake cleaner but it is not leaking grease
The mounted corner takes considerable effort to bivot while the opposite side with no excessive squealing pivots easily.
What do you guys think?
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXGzu8X2pzw&feature=youtu.be[/media]
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Joined: Jul 2006
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These tend to be tight, but it's possible that one wore-in faster than the other.
If you feel like it, and have the tools, I would remove it to inspect the joint itself. With the boot intact, it's unlikely, but I have seen damage to the actual socket. Often this is the result of someone using a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the control arm.
To inspect the boot, remove the ball joint from the knuckle and LCA. remove the metal retainer clip from the dust boot, and pull the dust boot off the joint.
After inspection, repack the boot with high quality grease, but don't over do it. It will ooze out when the boot compresses during install and make a mess.
If you feel like it, and have the tools, I would remove it to inspect the joint itself. With the boot intact, it's unlikely, but I have seen damage to the actual socket. Often this is the result of someone using a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the control arm.
To inspect the boot, remove the ball joint from the knuckle and LCA. remove the metal retainer clip from the dust boot, and pull the dust boot off the joint.
After inspection, repack the boot with high quality grease, but don't over do it. It will ooze out when the boot compresses during install and make a mess.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,452
Likes: 23
thanks guys
The balljoint articulates without any kind of inconsistent hesitation or increased force, it's just much stiffer than the opposite side, stiffer than either the other 2 s2ks that all got the J's S1 at the same time. Not to mention it also makes that awful sound.
The balljoint articulates without any kind of inconsistent hesitation or increased force, it's just much stiffer than the opposite side, stiffer than either the other 2 s2ks that all got the J's S1 at the same time. Not to mention it also makes that awful sound.
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From: Frankfort, KY
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 175
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Does it make the noise at any point in the rotation or at a specific point/area every time? Usually with ball joints, sound is your warning that something is going wrong. The number of things that can happen that cause noise without increased friction or faster wear is small. If grease isn't preventing pure stud to seat contact it's probably on borrowed time.
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