Just installed a set of KW V3s on my AP2 and was adjusting the ride height but need some feedback on your experience. I set the "A" measurement (Spring base to lower bolt) at the front and rear to the maximum 360mm and 240mm, respectively. The resulting ride height measured from center hub to fender was 332mm front and 347mm rear.

I read somewhere that the KW recommended ride height was approx 13.13in (333mm) all around. The front was pretty much at that height but the rear has to be lowered approx 15mm. Is this correct?

Do you guys have any recommended ride heights for track setup?
I want to limit the lowering to a minimum and keep the suspension geometry as close to stock as possible. Ideally I would go corner balance but unfortunately there are no local shops in my area... Also, the manuals are all for an AP1 so I'm not sure if the ride height measurements are any different for AP2. Thanks for advice.

 

These are my KWV3 measurements. I'm very happy with this ride height:

Spring Perches
LF 2.725".......................RF 2.725" (measured to ridge)
LR 1.67 + 1/2 down........RR 1.67" (measured to 1st thread)

Ride Heights ground to fender (NT01s) Exactly 1" lowered
LF 25 1/4.........RF 25 3/8
LR 25 3/4.........RR 25 5/8

Wheel center to fender..........Stock
13...........13 1/4........(14 1/8 14 1/4)
13 1/4.....13 1/2........(14 3/8 14 1/4)


Jack Point Ride Height (NT01s)
LF 4 1/2........RF 4 1/4
LR 4 5/8.......RR 4 3/8

 

I run clubsports around 13.1" front and 13.4 rear with full tank gas. I cut almost 0.5" off my front bumpstops and i still hit them durring agressive cornering even on my highest fsb setting and 750/650 rates. The bumpstop keeps me from bottoming out my tire on the inner fender bump though. I plan on raising the front another 0.2" and seeing if that helps.

 

Looks like I'm setting it fairly close to what you guys are running... will try to get a corner balance sometime
Thanks

 

am i missing something...the ride height ground to fender and wheel to fender have the right side a bit higher... the jack points have the left side a bit higher... the jack point measurements make sense so when you sit in the car it evens out?

 

The ride height differences are between 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch which is just about at the limit of my measurement error but the fender lips aren't the most precise point of measurement on the car anyway. Also the floor of my garage isn't flat so that throws some error into the numbers too. These numbers were all taken with no driver so the car would settle a little to the left side.

 

I am curious, I set my ride ht last weekend at approx 4 1/4" pass side and 4 3/8" driver side (to the jack points) and had wildly different amounts of turns on my clubsports to get these as even as I could. Is this common? One seems cranked to within several turns of the top two are near the center (up a little) and one about two thirds up. I have yet to go get re aligned and hope that I don't have to go through the whole process again after as it was a PITA to get it where it is. Any comments?

 

I made a mistake on the install of my clubsports before which I had a similar case. With a closer inspection, I noticed that the top of the shaft had not seated properly on one of the shocks (lip of shaft had the upper spring perch cup pinched b/t the shaft lip and the top hat instead of the perch around the shaft). Visually when installed it wasn’t sticking up through the top hat as much as the other one was. After I corrected that issue, I could run a more even number of turns for an even ride height.

But on another note, manufacturing isn’t perfect and things can get bent out of shape and bushings can get worn which can give a difference side to side.

 

I raised the front end to about 13.35” and then I got a new alignment. I was at around -2.4 camber before I raised it, then camber went to -2.0. Then I took it to -2.8 dr/-2.9pass and the final ride height was about 13.1” The added camber actually lowered the car which I found weird. Measurements taken with 17x9 +60 TR C3s with 255/40/17 RS3 kooks at 33psi.

I added camber to the rear as well which also lowered it slightly going from -2.3 to -2.5lr/-2.6rr. I jacked the rear up one thread before my event so I could keep the same rear height at 13.4” I'm not sure what effect that had on my amount of camber but I assume it took out about -0.1 at least.

With a passenber the car was pretty ballanced. Once I drove by myself the car was more loose on power. The rear compression was about 3 clicks out from full stiff. I didn't get a chance to change it but I think I needed to take a little out or maybe lower the rear back down a thread.

 

Your corner weights are completely screwed. You cannot set ride height this way. Either put the car on scales and adjust your spring perches for ride height and cross weight, or without scales simply adjust both front spring perches exactly the same to get the front ride height you need, then adjust both rear spring perches exactly the same to get the rear ride height. You cannot set your spring perches left to right to different settings without screwing up your corner weights. Without corner balancing your car you need: Left Front = Right Front and Left Rear = Right Rear. Trying to use equal ride heights to corner balance (whether measured at the fender lips or jack points) will not even be close.