kwv3 vs eibach multi pro r2
Ohlins IMO is the best of both. Great for street and decent for track. but is a little too soft for hardcore track guys.
Part of the thread is a mono-tube vs twin-tube. HKS, Eibach R2, and Ohlins DFV are mono-tube. The KWs are twin tube. This topic can turn into a religious war on this forum so that will be the extent of my comment on it.
The Eibach R2 is canister shock offering a compression adjustment and acting as a base valve (head valve in some Penske docs). In addition I believe the S2000 R2s have a piggyback canister in the rear and a bracket to mount the canister in the engine compartment at the top of the shock in the front. At $2700 they are far and away least expensive canister shock available and are only available from Evasive who special orders them in batches. Net: for $2700 Evasive is offering a lot of shock with springs and tophats in the R2 if the 900 lb/in (16 kg/mm) springs work for the intended application. I think they are built in the US.
The Eibach R2 is canister shock offering a compression adjustment and acting as a base valve (head valve in some Penske docs). In addition I believe the S2000 R2s have a piggyback canister in the rear and a bracket to mount the canister in the engine compartment at the top of the shock in the front. At $2700 they are far and away least expensive canister shock available and are only available from Evasive who special orders them in batches. Net: for $2700 Evasive is offering a lot of shock with springs and tophats in the R2 if the 900 lb/in (16 kg/mm) springs work for the intended application. I think they are built in the US.
Part of what makes the DFV (and HKS Hypermax series) so attractive is the simplicity of use. I'm even dumber than that... I went with a reputable shock builder and had shocks built to the "set to fast all the time" spec for 95% of conditions encountered 95% of the time. There's nothing to fiddle with - just focus on the driving and stop making excuses - the equipment is functioning and set just fine.
Originally Posted by DavidNJ' timestamp='1456907843' post='23896647
Part of the thread is a mono-tube vs twin-tube. HKS, Eibach R2, and Ohlins DFV are mono-tube. The KWs are twin tube. This topic can turn into a religious war on this forum so that will be the extent of my comment on it.
Not more popular? See your answer below.
BTW, IMHO, calling it a "twin tube" is branding error that should be a B-school case study.
There's something to be said of the "stupid factor". One could buy $8000 JRZ 4-way adjustable shocks and set them in such a way that they make the vehicle handle worse than the stock setup.
Part of what makes the DFV (and HKS Hypermax series) so attractive is the simplicity of use. I'm even dumber than that... I went with a reputable shock builder and had shocks built to the "set to fast all the time" spec for 95% of conditions encountered 95% of the time. There's nothing to fiddle with - just focus on the driving and stop making excuses - the equipment is functioning and set just fine.
Part of what makes the DFV (and HKS Hypermax series) so attractive is the simplicity of use. I'm even dumber than that... I went with a reputable shock builder and had shocks built to the "set to fast all the time" spec for 95% of conditions encountered 95% of the time. There's nothing to fiddle with - just focus on the driving and stop making excuses - the equipment is functioning and set just fine.
The Eibach R2 is just more shock and a quality shocks. It is offering independent high speed compression and low speed rebound adjustments. It has a very clever mounting (canister bracket in front, piggyback in rear). But it isn't a shock with a lot of people familiar with tuning it. I'm impressed that Evasive went out of there way to make it available for the S2k. $2700. Comparable two-way adjustable canister mono-tubes with springs and top hats start around $4000.
The DFV is a very high quality shock. The out of the box setup with springs, tophats, etc. for $2400 is a good deal. The springs are more of a street rate, 10 kg/mm and 8/kg/mm.
The HKS SP's are a straightforward coli over monotube and come with the same rate as the Eibach R2s, 16 kg/mm all around. All reports are that they are a fine inexpensive coilover at around $1600. There is also a GT model with rates closer to the stock DFVs, 8kg/mm and 7kg/mm. The Fortune Auto 500 and 510 would be similar, but with assembly and repair at the company's Virginia location. Depending on the model either slightly less expensive or slightly more expensive than the HKS.
My guess is, unless to stiff for intended street use or too soft for intended track use, the Eiback, DFV, HKS, or Fortune Auto would be fine.
If the Eibach R2's were available with autocross valving for stock springs and with stock top hats it would be an interesting B/Street alternative.Or with slightly softer springs maybe STR. Penske 7500DAs are about $3400, which would probably start the price range of serious racing shocks but wouldn't work on a lowered car (they have a base valve in the main tube and there isn't enough travel if lowered.)
Originally Posted by DavidNJ' timestamp='1456907843' post='23896647
Part of the thread is a mono-tube vs twin-tube. HKS, Eibach R2, and Ohlins DFV are mono-tube. The KWs are twin tube. This topic can turn into a religious war on this forum so that will be the extent of my comment on it.
Part of what makes the DFV (and HKS Hypermax series) so attractive is the simplicity of use. I'm even dumber than that... I went with a reputable shock builder and had shocks built to the "set to fast all the time" spec for 95% of conditions encountered 95% of the time. There's nothing to fiddle with - just focus on the driving and stop making excuses - the equipment is functioning and set just fine.
As a double adjustable shock owner, I don't think the adjustments are complicated or hard to understand.
One of the biggest benefits is being able to turn the bump down after and event. This allows the commute home to be more enjoyable.
Also, I adjust bump based on available grip. As grip goes up, so does bump, and vice versa.
Double adjustability allows for tremendous flexibility.
One of the biggest benefits is being able to turn the bump down after and event. This allows the commute home to be more enjoyable.
Also, I adjust bump based on available grip. As grip goes up, so does bump, and vice versa.
Double adjustability allows for tremendous flexibility.
As a double adjustable shock owner, I don't think the adjustments are complicated or hard to understand.
One of the biggest benefits is being able to turn the bump down after and event. This allows the commute home to be more enjoyable.
Also, I adjust bump based on available grip. As grip goes up, so does bump, and vice versa.
Double adjustability allows for tremendous flexibility.
One of the biggest benefits is being able to turn the bump down after and event. This allows the commute home to be more enjoyable.
Also, I adjust bump based on available grip. As grip goes up, so does bump, and vice versa.
Double adjustability allows for tremendous flexibility.
The Evasive Eibach R2s seem to be a track day setup with their 16 kg/mm springs. Evasive has sold dozens if not more than a hundred sets. Does someone here use them? Can Evasive get one of their customers to chime in?
I was looking at the R2s as an alternative to the Penske 7500DAs for B/Street autocross. However, my driving did not advance as fast as I had hoped and the car handles well enough and is fast enough (Nate took it to a class win and 11th or 13th in PAX in a very competitive field last October) as is until my driving improves.
I still have the Koni 8242, and I prefer more bar less spring setups.
This requires me to run higher ride heights to allow for more shock travel which allows for more control over weight transfer. This is the compromise I live with.
So, buy a double adjustable if you can afford it. If the spring rate is "soft" add more bar and/or get a re-valve.
This requires me to run higher ride heights to allow for more shock travel which allows for more control over weight transfer. This is the compromise I live with.
So, buy a double adjustable if you can afford it. If the spring rate is "soft" add more bar and/or get a re-valve.







