That's really hard to say... I was running stock bearings without a single problem until I hit 140k. And the reason I warped the rear bearings was because of the excess force of 275 series slicks...

 

Whenever they start to make any sort of noise. It's a consumable only for us track guys; under normal use its not something that would wear out for a few hundred thousand miles. (Similar to how we get valve adjustments fairly frequently versus the 100k interval for "normal" conditions).

 

swapped bearings, swapped bushings, swapped hubs, swapped toe arms. Still twicty but not the wants to kill you twitchy it was. Went from 1/8th toe in to a 1/4 toe in and dropped 2 seconds a lap.

Story on the toe arms. Bought a set of used T1R arms with bad rod ends. Ordered Rod ends. Screwed up and ordered a SAE Pitch. Spent more money on the rod ends then I spent on the Used T1R kit. So Called a friend who builds heavy duty racing custom suspension stuff and he happend to have the EXACT length and thread pitch I needed sitting on his desk as part of a control arm kit he builds for another car. He sent them down and I bolted them up using the T1R pins. Upon tightening down the pin going through the ball joint the pin snapped. So I found another set of pins that looked to be made out of a better metal and ordered them from another company. After doing all this I talked to my friend about the whole situation and snapped some pictures of it and he said the whole design was crap from and engineering point of view. So I'm sending him a Wheel hub assembly and stock toe arm today and he's gonna redesign it all for me.
Wish I could get the whole car to him but he's in the DC area.

 

Been planing on doing my bearings as well soon, no noise and there all tight. My car has 236k on it and the only bearing that has been replaced is the passenger rear and that was back at 150k

 

I think one of the main culprits causing the rear wheel bearings to fail is the heat soak from the solid brake disks. I installed two piece rotors in the rear so hopefully I'll get more life from them.

If you need it here's the wheel bearing swap how-to: http://www.robrobinette.com/S2000Bearing.htm

 

Rob, how quickly do you go through rear wheel bearings? More specifically, how long will it be before we see if there are any significant results?

Emilio did suggest rear brake ducts, partially to cool the pad/rotor, but more so in that it will help the rear wheel bearings last longer.

 

In the last 3 years I have replaced the left rear once and the right rear twice (and both fronts). I had the dealer do the right rear the first time and I think they screwed up the install so It may have not actually worn out or cooked.

 

I'll be adding rear brake ducts this summer. My initial thought is to create a 2" hole in the inner strake and attach one of the 2" spruce aircraft ducts to it and then run a short length of hose pointed at the center of the axle. Will still be using stock solid discs.

I'm not confident that the strake can support a 2" hole. We'll see.

 

to the op your Camber is wayyyyyy to high IMO - a lap is the highest average speed and you have your camber setup for your cornering limit that means if your not on the bleeding edge of traction your simply giving up contact patch when matched with aggressive driving and a bumpy track will quickly overload traction, also you generally need to add a bigger bar in the front and I since I imagine you are able to get such camber because your car is dumped you probably have very poor roll centers. You might want to look into RCA's like the SPC ball joints.

Also many popular tires I've seen don't heat cycle very well and despite having plenty of meat simply fall off after a few times being pushed.

Also if your tracking pop for ceramic wheel bearings, they are worth the cost.

 

Read Op's 1st page. Op is stock with non-staggered wheels.