MFactory differentials Metal vs Helical
#1
MFactory differentials Metal vs Helical
I race in Honda Challenge H1 and plan to put an upgraded diff in the car for this season. I have been in talked with MFactory but can't decided if I should go with the metal or helical style. They have the metal in stock right now but PuddyMod was leaning towards setting up the helical. I wanted to see if anyone on here has one of their diffs and could give me some feedback. As an aside I need to have the car driveable in the rain to if that effects anyone's opinion.
MFactory Competition Products - Performance Driveline Components
MFactory Competition Products - Performance Driveline Components
#3
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Dimas, CA / Taichung, TW
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: San Dimas, CA / Taichung, TW
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Power Delivery: Both oem and Quaife transfer approx. 66% of power to the wheel with traction. The MFactory uses a higher bias ratio, allowing transfer of approx. 75% of power to the wheel with traction
Testing of the coilovers on the V6 S2000 has went well thus far. We're just waiting for some revised components to come in and we can swap out to the production springs.
#7
I'd go plate/clutch type for track use. No worries putting power continuously down to both rear wheels while cornering hard over curbing. Helical will spin inside rear when it is unloaded...
I went from Torsen T2R helical on my street/track FD to an O.S.Giken 1.5-way with light preload (high "negative preload"). It is transparent in operation, LOVE it on the street and at the track.
I would start out with very light preload and see if that is sufficient. Higher preload induces understeer and increases wear rate. IMO best to use as little as you can get away with for your setup and usage and let the ramps provide increased lockup under load.
I went from Torsen T2R helical on my street/track FD to an O.S.Giken 1.5-way with light preload (high "negative preload"). It is transparent in operation, LOVE it on the street and at the track.
I would start out with very light preload and see if that is sufficient. Higher preload induces understeer and increases wear rate. IMO best to use as little as you can get away with for your setup and usage and let the ramps provide increased lockup under load.
Trending Topics
#8
#10
I have the Helical one. I wanted to try something different and I didn't have access to an OEM one so I had puddy build me one of the M factory ones. Oddly the car dyno'd 30whp less but I can't imagine the diff doing that. I was trying to hunt down why my rear wheels were so hard to turn when it was hanging in the air. I disconnected the drive shaft and took the brakes off an I could still barely turn the wheels. I swapped the diffs in and it felt the same. I have a feeling I have bad rear wheel bearings (which were new OEM honda like 400 miles ago). But oddly enough with only an air filter change as well the car dyno'd 30 less after the diff swap. Since the diff makes no noise and was great to drive on track I think I had something else happen (head gasket is suspect due to finding several loose ARP head studs). But thats the diff that was in it when I took it to sebring last October. I liked it. Drove well, had a bit of inside wheel spin (expected for a torsen style) but i'm working on solving that right now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post