mods for the track....help newbie
06-18-2002, 03:51 PM
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mods for the track....help newbie
New here. Hello
I just bought a 2000 S2000 last friday for the sole purpose of road racing. I'll be racing in "stock" so very few mods are allowed. Please help. I know nothing so any info is appreciated.
[B]Wheels 17"x7"&7
I just bought a 2000 S2000 last friday for the sole purpose of road racing. I'll be racing in "stock" so very few mods are allowed. Please help. I know nothing so any info is appreciated.
[B]Wheels 17"x7"&7
06-18-2002, 05:20 PM
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filter - get the JR or K&N...skip spoon.
alignment - see the big thread in under the hood forum.
engine - I think the consensus is Mugen header for header and that it is worth it. For exhaust, you are mostly going to be going for weight savings and sound if you can't go to an N1 single output. Do a search in under the hood and you could probably find more weight savings info.
As for ECUs, with the VAFC I found 10hp gain across the board, increasing after max power to 18hp gain at redline.
alignment - see the big thread in under the hood forum.
engine - I think the consensus is Mugen header for header and that it is worth it. For exhaust, you are mostly going to be going for weight savings and sound if you can't go to an N1 single output. Do a search in under the hood and you could probably find more weight savings info.
As for ECUs, with the VAFC I found 10hp gain across the board, increasing after max power to 18hp gain at redline.
06-18-2002, 05:35 PM
#3
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Save the money and run with stock wheels. You can pickup some 205/55/16's or 225/50/16's for the front - 244/45/16's for the rear. You want wider tires not heavier wheels. 
Also, finding a wheel in stock offset and width in 17" is next to impossible. The JDM wheels might be worth investigating. They are stock specs, but significantly lighter.
Suspension? What's wrong with it? Can you run different sway bars or is there any limit to the alignment specs? Unless you are a suspension GURU I wouldn't touch anything here.
Jr or MG filter all the way. The Spoon filter is almost $200.
You just need a rail and seat combo. Mugen offers a package, but cheaper can be found.
It sounds like you need a dual exhaust setup to keep the stock profile. Mugen sells a lighter dual exhaust. A new Header might net a few horse, but more importantly shave weight. Amuse has titanium dual that they will sell you for a small fortune.
A VAFC will cost around $300. Tuning may run a few bones, but if you want to tweak and you cannot replace the ECU its the way to go.
OH YEAH...
What can you do with brakes?
Also, finding a wheel in stock offset and width in 17" is next to impossible. The JDM wheels might be worth investigating. They are stock specs, but significantly lighter.Suspension? What's wrong with it? Can you run different sway bars or is there any limit to the alignment specs? Unless you are a suspension GURU I wouldn't touch anything here.
Jr or MG filter all the way. The Spoon filter is almost $200.
You just need a rail and seat combo. Mugen offers a package, but cheaper can be found.
It sounds like you need a dual exhaust setup to keep the stock profile. Mugen sells a lighter dual exhaust. A new Header might net a few horse, but more importantly shave weight. Amuse has titanium dual that they will sell you for a small fortune.
A VAFC will cost around $300. Tuning may run a few bones, but if you want to tweak and you cannot replace the ECU its the way to go.
OH YEAH...
What can you do with brakes?
06-18-2002, 05:41 PM
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Thanks
That VAFC looks like a sound choice if I ever find out what it is. I'm assuming it's some kind of programmable piggy-back ECU? Where did you find these gains - fuel or timming?
On the air filter - what about comptech's drop-in? I know K&N, don't know J&R...
That VAFC looks like a sound choice if I ever find out what it is. I'm assuming it's some kind of programmable piggy-back ECU? Where did you find these gains - fuel or timming?
On the air filter - what about comptech's drop-in? I know K&N, don't know J&R...
06-18-2002, 06:09 PM
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Jerry,
BRAKES:
oem rotors and calipers, no x-drill/slotted, free choice in pad selection, air ducts allowed!, steel braided lines.
SUSPENSION:
As long as the sway-bars go to the OEM locations - OK. No limit to alignment specs. No coilovers - just springs and adjustable shocks - need help here - too many available.
Wheels: What about the SSR's the tirerack has in 7" (16.5#) & 7
BRAKES:
oem rotors and calipers, no x-drill/slotted, free choice in pad selection, air ducts allowed!, steel braided lines.
SUSPENSION:
As long as the sway-bars go to the OEM locations - OK. No limit to alignment specs. No coilovers - just springs and adjustable shocks - need help here - too many available.
Wheels: What about the SSR's the tirerack has in 7" (16.5#) & 7
06-18-2002, 07:16 PM
#6
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I'd skip the SSR's. Why do you want to run a 17" wheel so badly? I am a big proponent of the "Ain't broke, don't fix" doctrine. Tires and brakes should definitely be upgraded for a track-type environment though.
You could go with 225/50/16 in the front 245/45/16 in the rear and keep similar-to-stock balance with the addition of a stiffer front sway bar. Hoosier doesn't make tires in the above sizes, but folks swear by the Toyo RA1s and favor the inexpensive Kumho V700 Victoracers.
I had the JR filter on my car before wrenching a SC in there. Basically, all the aftermarket air filters do is save you from having to buy a new air filter every couple months.
Unless something is wrong with the stock suspension, or you know somebody who is a god at tuning suspension: LEAVE IT STOCK.
The VAFC is a piggy bag Air Fuel controller with the added functionality to modify VTEC engagement/disengagement. Basically you can adjust your fuel ratio and monkey with the VTEC point. The stock fuel curve is fairly rich, so there are meaningful gains here if you know what you are doing. Apex-i manufactures the VAFC (VTEC Air Fuel Controller).
Max out the mods on the brakes. Chuck the dust shields, cram some cooling ducts into the bumper, please switch to race pads, swap the lines if you are bored, but definitely run a fluid with a higher boiling point. DOT4 or higher. ATE SuperBlue is the crowd favorite.
You could go with 225/50/16 in the front 245/45/16 in the rear and keep similar-to-stock balance with the addition of a stiffer front sway bar. Hoosier doesn't make tires in the above sizes, but folks swear by the Toyo RA1s and favor the inexpensive Kumho V700 Victoracers.
I had the JR filter on my car before wrenching a SC in there. Basically, all the aftermarket air filters do is save you from having to buy a new air filter every couple months.
Unless something is wrong with the stock suspension, or you know somebody who is a god at tuning suspension: LEAVE IT STOCK.
The VAFC is a piggy bag Air Fuel controller with the added functionality to modify VTEC engagement/disengagement. Basically you can adjust your fuel ratio and monkey with the VTEC point. The stock fuel curve is fairly rich, so there are meaningful gains here if you know what you are doing. Apex-i manufactures the VAFC (VTEC Air Fuel Controller).
Max out the mods on the brakes. Chuck the dust shields, cram some cooling ducts into the bumper, please switch to race pads, swap the lines if you are bored, but definitely run a fluid with a higher boiling point. DOT4 or higher. ATE SuperBlue is the crowd favorite.
06-18-2002, 08:48 PM
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See if you can get in touch with Pepe, a member of this board - I haven't seen him post much lately. He's been racing his S2000 there in Puerto Rico for a while and if I remember correctly the class he was racing in was also subject to some weird rules.
As for what mods to do, tell us about your budget and then we can throw out some ideas. Shocks can range from the $600/set Konis to the $1200/corner and up custom jobbies.
As for what mods to do, tell us about your budget and then we can throw out some ideas. Shocks can range from the $600/set Konis to the $1200/corner and up custom jobbies.
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06-19-2002, 11:12 AM
#8
Jicaro,
Also get in touch with King Motorsports, Comptech and possibly RealTime Racing to see if they might know what works and what doesn't in the particular series you are running.
Also get in touch with King Motorsports, Comptech and possibly RealTime Racing to see if they might know what works and what doesn't in the particular series you are running.
06-19-2002, 06:55 PM
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Hi again and thanks guys,
Jerry,
wheels I need about 8 wheels and stock wheels aren't readily available unless I go to a dealer and buy them new. I checked with Hoosier today and they Ok'd using 225/45 front and rear although rims would be 7" and 7
Jerry,
wheels I need about 8 wheels and stock wheels aren't readily available unless I go to a dealer and buy them new. I checked with Hoosier today and they Ok'd using 225/45 front and rear although rims would be 7" and 7
06-19-2002, 09:02 PM
#10
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jic -
I'm about to order a set of JDM 6 spokes for an individual. If you'd like me to include two sets for you, I can certainly do that and ship them out to you. They aren't exactly cheap, but they are much lighter than the stock wheels and they are the stock wheel sizes.
I can supply you with Porterfield R4's - many sets at a discount - PM for details, Comptech or JR filter, and some brake cooling ducts that I will be releasing very soon. They will be for the front and for the rear. The rears really need them - they cook about 150 degrees hotter than the fronts!
if you have any questions, email/PM me or give me a ring: Randy 512.947.1729.
Thanks!
I'm about to order a set of JDM 6 spokes for an individual. If you'd like me to include two sets for you, I can certainly do that and ship them out to you. They aren't exactly cheap, but they are much lighter than the stock wheels and they are the stock wheel sizes.
I can supply you with Porterfield R4's - many sets at a discount - PM for details, Comptech or JR filter, and some brake cooling ducts that I will be releasing very soon. They will be for the front and for the rear. The rears really need them - they cook about 150 degrees hotter than the fronts!
if you have any questions, email/PM me or give me a ring: Randy 512.947.1729.
Thanks!