What would be the effect on suspension by going to equal size front and rear?

I am looking at a set of lightweight wheels but 17X7 is the narrowest, and don't want to add the extra resistance of 17x8 in the back along with possible strain of bogging on the differential.

Thanks for any help.

 

Depending on your suspension, your balance will be thrown off and you'll have reduced grip overall especially trying to put power down.

What are you trying to accomplish?

 

Depends how experienced of a driver you are I'd imagine, and the width of the tires you plan to throw on there.

 

Yeah are you planning to run equal width tires, ~225?

 

I know nothing about tire sizing. If I could narrow out the front a little on the new wheel I would, don't know how narrow I could go. Would like to duplicate stock feel, I don't have a track that close so the car might be autocrossed. I don't know how wide to narrow I can go on a 7 inch width to maintain what Honda intended, but and recomendations would be great.

What I am trying to accomplish is just a lighter wheel weight. I thought it would be less likely to understeer at the limit, but don't know if that will make it oversteer more easily than it does now on a stock 2001. Looking to avoid the "unintended rotation at the point of disappearing talent" as C&D put it especially without paying to upgrade to AP2 suspension if I can avoid it.

Not looking to make the back more squirrelly. And calling me an autocross or track novice would be kind but an insult to track novices.

Many thanks.

 

You probably will if you do this.

I can't imagine you can get any more than a 245 on a 7 inch wheel and it won't have a very good contact patch.

Why do you want a lower wheel weight?

What's with the extra resistance comment? How is that relevant? AP2's have this or more.

 

Then why not just get compare what the wheels you have in terms of weight, and get wheels that are just lighter than the OEM ones.

This way you don't have to worry about the car's balance

 

Keep the oem diameter and width and find yourself some lighter wheels and keep the staggered tires.

 

Mostly because these wheels are much lighter but still CHEAP.

As far as the extra resistance comment, from much of my reading on differential failure it seems most common when the car bogs and the engine does not have enough power to spin the wheels and is putting maximum strain on the diff.

I am not into burnouts or hard launches, but to use a launch as an example, if you were to spin up to 6000 rpm on stock tires and pop the clutch you would spin the wheels and release some of the strain on the diff. With a wider contact patch the tires might not break free but the strain on the diff might break the bearing caps/ring and pinion.

Don't know if that theory holds, but read one to many threads about people trying to launch on wider tires and snapping differentials, and it was an offered up theory.

I wanna lighten the car without spending a fortune and these wheel seemed like a good option at $700 a set instead of $2400 for Volks. I could go t0 the 17x8 in the back in this wheel without a problem, but I still like higher gas milage if it is a DD in the summer.

 

What the hell kind of racing are you doing?