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i can run down to 10 lb of fuel on track now. no swirl pot, sp legal.
Modify a pump so that it has its own little bowl mounted to its body that cups the sock.
Mount secondary pumps on hangers that pump fuel into the modified primary pump's filter sock cup.
Get secondary pumps to mount onto oem hanger and configure everything so that it can be installed and assembled while inside the tank with one hand. Once all pieces are assembled to the oem pump hanger unit, Bolt it down so that everything true and true is mounted to the oem location, and your done! a few pounds added, and 70 or so saved in running low fuel
i can run down to 10 lb of fuel on track now. no swirl pot, sp legal.
Modify a pump so that it has its own little bowl mounted to its body that cups the sock.
Mount secondary pumps on hangers that pump fuel into the modified primary pump's filter sock cup.
Get secondary pumps to mount onto oem hanger and configure everything so that it can be installed and assembled while inside the tank with one hand. Once all pieces are assembled to the oem pump hanger unit, Bolt it down so that everything true and true is mounted to the oem location, and your done! a few pounds added, and 70 or so saved in running low fuel
That pic and diagram shows a 90° fitting with a -6AN to M12x1.5 adapter. I ended up re-installing the check valve on the Bosch 044 which needed the banjo with a straight -6AN fitting and cap instead. I included all the Russell part numbers.
Bump. I have an observation & idea & thought I would share it here.
After my motor rebuild & fuel pump upgrade (walbro 255 to a Full Blown 340), I started noticing fuel surge issues under 1st gear acceleration (4.57 diff) with less than 1/2 tank of gas. I did NOT experience these issues with my Walbro. I have not tracked the car (yet) so no comments on surging issues due to cornering. Since I am in the middle of replacing my top, I decided this would be a good time to investigate. I removed the pump from the tank and measured from the tank flange to the bottom of the tank & it was ~9.37". I then measured from the flange gasket on the filter/pump assembly to the bottom of the filter sock and it was only ~8.12". So, my fuel pick up was slightly over 1" above the bottom of the tank. I believe this is a big part of my issue. So, I creatively lowered the fuel pump 1" lower into the tank and will experiment with it once I get the car back on the road.
Does anyone know how deep the OEM pump & filter sock sits? I would expect the sock would be close to the bottom of the fuel level float.
Regarding my idea, has anyone experimented with a shield that could be inserted around the filter/pump assembly, hung by the lip of the tank, sandwiched between the tank and gasket using the 8 cover bolts? It would have to go all the way down to the bottom of the tank with a "U" shape in the front to allow for the fuel level float. The opening for the float arm could be minimal. This is where the fuel would enter. If this would work, I can see it as a cheap alternative to surge tanks, modified tanks, and fuel cells. The problem is I don't have any way to fab something like this. Thin sheet metal, a roller. and away to make a lip or flange on the top would be needed. Thoughts??
They still have to send me the pictures of the fix, but here are some pictures of the OEM swirl pot removed from the tank:
It's just a little metal basin with a slit in the bottom. So if you "toss" the gas out of the basin, it has to refill from that little hole. The basin also is flared outwards, contributing to the ease of throwing gas out of the surge tank.
Is it possible to just remove this basin with the tank still installed and would it be worth it?
I have the same problem in first gear and taking hard turns that you had. I have a twin pump setup and I was thinking of just removing the basin but this is a very good idea thanks for posting this. If you can send me a copy of the template please Pm me thanks.
07-15-2013, 08:37 PM
