Oil pressure maybe issue
I remember before I use to have oil pressure 18 psi at idle and about 50-90 in the rpm range till vtec then it would drop to about 70 psi.
I disconnect my gauge for a bit and finally got around to hooking it up again and now I am getting 80-90 psi around 4000 rpm. I find it stranger that if rises so quickly. I let my car sit for a few weeks and wondering if it's seething wrong with the sensor
My temps are around 140-150 with outside temps about 60.
For some reason this doesn't seem too normal to me. I remember I use to see pressure at like 50-70 range more often now it's either 20 or 90
I disconnect my gauge for a bit and finally got around to hooking it up again and now I am getting 80-90 psi around 4000 rpm. I find it stranger that if rises so quickly. I let my car sit for a few weeks and wondering if it's seething wrong with the sensor
My temps are around 140-150 with outside temps about 60.
For some reason this doesn't seem too normal to me. I remember I use to see pressure at like 50-70 range more often now it's either 20 or 90
The motors are designed to pretty much ride the pressure relief valve all the time, so it should basically be above 85psi all the time. I would think your earlier readings had something amiss, or you may have a legitimate oil pressure issues that the cold temps are currently masking, as you suggest. Your oil pressure should certainly not be dropping once VTEC comes on--at that high an RPM you should have a huge amount of excess pumping ability from the pump. Where is your pressure sensor? I haven't really analyzed the oil system but if you're reading pressure from somewhere in the VTEC solenoid pathway, the local pressure there may be dropping when it engages, while main pressure in the engine (bearings, head) is still well within spec.
I use an AEM oil pressure gauge and sender. It's in a T-connector with the OE oil pressure sender. I've done this on two built NA 2.2L engines.
Honda specs state at 176degrees (warm but not hot):
idle 36psi
3000rpm 85psi
The first engine was a rebuilt one. Idle oil pressure when warm would be between 12-22psi bouncing up and down. 3000rpm would be 65-75psi, bouncing up and down.
The second engine, not rebuilt, excellent compression, is about 25-28psi at idle, and 3000rpm 75-80psi at 3000rpm, neither bouncing as much as the other engine.
It was the same exact sender and gauge for each one.
Several well respected engine builders and oil experts (including Lake Speed, Jr of Joe Gibbs Racing, who I would trust pretty much more than anyone) didn't give me any specific explanation, but told me not to worry about it.
BTW, the proper and best comparable place to read oil temps is from the pan. That's one of the reasons the new Canton pan will have 2 extra bungs there.
Honda specs state at 176degrees (warm but not hot):
idle 36psi
3000rpm 85psi
The first engine was a rebuilt one. Idle oil pressure when warm would be between 12-22psi bouncing up and down. 3000rpm would be 65-75psi, bouncing up and down.
The second engine, not rebuilt, excellent compression, is about 25-28psi at idle, and 3000rpm 75-80psi at 3000rpm, neither bouncing as much as the other engine.
It was the same exact sender and gauge for each one.
Several well respected engine builders and oil experts (including Lake Speed, Jr of Joe Gibbs Racing, who I would trust pretty much more than anyone) didn't give me any specific explanation, but told me not to worry about it.
BTW, the proper and best comparable place to read oil temps is from the pan. That's one of the reasons the new Canton pan will have 2 extra bungs there.
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I'm using a plx gauge with the temp sensor in the drain plug. I'm not exactly sure WHY oil temps fall as much as they do, but I'm thinking in light load/cruising situations with plenty of airflow the OEM pan is effective at cooling the oil. On the track temps climb as you'd expect.







