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Hmm... Didn't even think about being able to put the windows up after climbing out. Duh. Looks like I'm either adding some lumber or modding the fender for sure. Previous owner already has a piece of 2x12 on each side to keep the front tires up so the frame doesn't drag, but it's not the full length. Wouldn't take much to put an extension front and back I suppose. Could probably find scrap pieces from local contractors or something.
I know it's not a big difference, but does having one side of the car higher than the other cause anything issues when strapping the car down?
I think I'm going to test load my car today or tomorrow and see what I need. I'm thinking the longer ramps some of you guys have would be a big help for sure.
Last edited by Holeshot121; 10-04-2018 at 02:20 AM.
Prob not a huge deal to have one side slightly higher. But I would probably just put the boards on both sides in case you need to open the other door for some reason.
When you test load, make sure you get the tongue weight correct. 10-12% - ish of the trailer and car weight, ir as close as you can get depending on your tow vehicles tongue weight rating. There are demonstrations online of how to setbup to measure. I actually just put the correct amount of weight using a couple of people standing on the hitch area, measured bumper height, then hooked up trailer and moved car until I matched it not super scientific, but it has been close enough to tow well Having this part right will help prevent towing issues.
S2000 width is a nominal 69" and the listed width between the fenders on this trailer is 82" roughly 6" clearance per side. Not sure how to make a detachable fender but they're common. Only need one on the drivers side anyway.
Tongue weight is vital for safe towing of a trailer. 10% to 15% is the rule (12% is fine) for conventional trailers. Measure the loaded tongue weight and position the car accordingly. Tool box and tires on the front of the trailer will put weight on the ball. Looking at the car and trailer specs you have 5000 pounds for just the car. Another 1000 pounds of "stuff" is easy to load, so I'd figure on a loaded weight of 6000 pounds to keep it conservative. 12% of 6000 is 720 pounds so if you can lift the loaded trailer tongue by hand you're either Superman or the load is horribly distributed. Cranking the handle on my similar weight camper made me fit an electric tongue jack within weeks of purchase.
Tow vehicle? It needs a maximum towing capacity of at least 6000 pounds and you'll be much happier if it has at least 7000 or more pounds. The vehicle may require a weight distribution hitch (WDH) as well depending on the rating of the receiver on the truck. You also need an electronic brake controller. My Ford Expedition with a maximum towing capacity of 9300 pounds (HD tow package) needs a WDH with a tongue weight over 660 pounds for example. I'd need a WDH to tow this myself. Pickup trucks will be similar. Specific vehicle towing guides are on line.
I will mention that I tow mine (With an aluminum trailer, but capacity would support a heavier steel tralier) behind our 2013 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road. The off road suspension is a bit soft so it does sit a bit lower than I would like when hooked up, but actually tows quite well. You notice it a bit in hills as the transmission wants to hunt, but it manages the job without issue.
If I were buying something with towing the car specifically in mind, I would get a bit larger truck, but just letting you know that a mid size will work if it has a good tow setup. Ours has a 6000lb capacity.
You will eventually get to the "how am I strapping this thing down part" :P I have used the subframe up front before, but it is kind of a pain to get the straps around. I have more recently went with straps through the front wheels instead (wheel nets would likely be better). In the back I just put some axle straps around the rear frame rails and then hook my big arse ratchet straps to those. But it depends a lot on where your hooks on the trailer are located too.
Here is my setup. I've had a couple trailers now and methods for the S2000 but this is by far the easiest. I have a 16ft total with a 2(?) foot beaver tail. I have no splitter and my car is not slammed. All I need to get it up is 2 pieces of wood in front of the tire. For strapped, I had D rings welded to front and back of the tires. I use quality Mac straps through the tires and pull straight front and back, no crossing. This is perfect the recommendation of MAC straps. It has worked very well and is super easy to do. I can get the car on and off in a few min by myself. My fenders are also low enough to open and close the door.
I've used the T hooks before and they aren't bad but just not as easy as going through the tires. If you have an open button trailer, definitely do not go with the T hooks because you need to get under the trailer to pass the hooks. It is easier with the a flat bottom if you use that method.
As far as the truck, its 8ft bed SR5 Tundra with the 5.7. It frequently forget I have anything behind me except on hills. Its great on hills too it just downshifts a few gears but never looses speed. I get 12-13mpg towing with it but on very hilly tows like going to Watkins Glen it will drop to 11.
Thanks for all the info and tips, guys! I'll try to address everything that was brought up. For tongue weight, I was actually going to do the same thing as you, Engifineer. I found that tip in another trailer thread on here - definitely stealing that to at least get in the ballpark.
My tow vehicle is a 2016 Tundra TRD Pro with the 5.7, so shouldn't have any worries there. Has a brake controller built in. Tow rating is almost 10k total. I'll see how it tows without a WDH and upgrade as needed.
I have a bunch of tie downs, but I decided to order a good set of dedicated straps for this car. Went with Mac straps and R hooks, which seemed like a good setup from other threads here. I didn't get the straps with the R hooks sewn in though, just in case - went with the regular snap hooks. Where the D rings are right now, I will have to cross the rears for sure, as they are wider than the rear tires. Fronts MIGHT be able to straight, but I'm not sure yet. Forgot to take a close look at them when I test loaded it today. I might have a couple D rings welded inboard more in the rear so I can avoid crossing them.
So a couple minor issues with the test load. With the standard 5' ramps and a 2 foot beavertail, I can't get the car on the ramps without the front bumper dragging. My car actually sagged a bit from my desired ride height, so I do plan to raise it a half inch this winter. That might actually solve that problem. For now, I backed my truck onto my ramps, and was able to get the car on the trailer. Coming off the trailer though, the raised edge on the bottom of the front bumper caught the metal where the wood deck ends and the metal beavertail starts. Just barely, no damage, but it still caught. I think this was the result of the trailer being angled down towards the car.
If raising the ride height half an inch doesn't solve this, it seems the best attempt at a solution would be to keep the trailer level and get longer ramps. The problem is that my trailer has a ramp setup that interlocks with the trailer, and I don't know if I can just use any aftermarket ramps - see pic here: http://www.needatrailer.com/suretrac...set-1-Ramp.png
The other minor issue with that is my ramps store inside the back of the trailer. Longer ramps won't fit in there, so I'll have to haul them in the bed. With a 6' bed, even diagonally they may not fit without sticking out. I suppose that's not the end of the world though.
My rear tires were up on the 2x12's installed by the previous owner, but the fronts were off them. I was able to open the door a little bit - just enough to squeeze out. I think I'll just extend the 2x12's so the front tires stay on them - shouldn't have a problem opening the doors then.
Don’t abandon raising the rear of the tow vehicle or front of the trailer. The more you can ramp your trailer the better. You will have to just be creative in solving the bumper drag. You may one day be setting your car at diff heights depending on the track (hello Sebring). When I am at very smooth tracks my Miata ride height is low enough the diff catches the end of trailer so I know I need a couple extra pieces of wood under the trailer front jack and run it up higher. So just look at your issue and customize a solution. You will always see race cars on open trailers with their own home cooked solutions to this issue. It may be as simple as a short piece of wood under the ramp where it touches the ground. I had a civic that looked like I was building a damn dog house with the wood I needed.
Regarding tongue weight....this is a simple and accurate way to measure thanks to some smart folks who understand Math. You just need a bathroom scale, brick and a 2x4
As mentioned, small ramps under the back of the two vehicle may help you a lot. I see lots of folks doing it that way. The ramps made for leveling RV's work for some.
Its cool that you found a good trailer! I will be looking for one of my own vs renting/borrowing one. Still trying to hold out for an aluminum one if I can though ... but they are $$$
The friend who has the trailer I have been using this year rents it to me and various others for track stuff. He also (being a smart guy!) realized he could find junk cars for $75 or so all over craigslist, where people just want to get rid of them. So, he buys them, removes any good parts like light housings, etc that he can sell on ebay, then hauls them to the scrap yard and gets a few hundred for them in scrap! I think he basically has paid for the trailer already. Now why didn't I think of that? :P
10-04-2018, 02:18 AM
not super scientific, but it has been close enough to tow well 
Having this part right will help prevent towing issues. 
