Open car trailers - how long of a beavertail do I need?
09-21-2018, 05:03 AM
#1
Open car trailers - how long of a beavertail do I need?
Now that I'm tracking regularly, I'd like to start trailering my car. I'm looking at open trailers. Not too concerned with steel deck vs wood deck, except it seems that all the steel deck trailers come with 4' beavertails and the wood decks come with 2' beavertails. And of course the steel ones are more expensive.
My car is lowered (like 13" H to F at the moment). I realize deck heights will vary among manufacturers, but has anyone had issues getting on a trailer with a 2' beavertail? What length ramps did you have? Most of the trailers I've seen come with 5' ramps. Just want to make sure I don't buy a trailer and can't get my car on it.
My car is lowered (like 13" H to F at the moment). I realize deck heights will vary among manufacturers, but has anyone had issues getting on a trailer with a 2' beavertail? What length ramps did you have? Most of the trailers I've seen come with 5' ramps. Just want to make sure I don't buy a trailer and can't get my car on it.
09-21-2018, 05:19 AM
#2
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Now that I'm tracking regularly, I'd like to start trailering my car. I'm looking at open trailers. Not too concerned with steel deck vs wood deck, except it seems that all the steel deck trailers come with 4' beavertails and the wood decks come with 2' beavertails. And of course the steel ones are more expensive.
My car is lowered (like 13" H to F at the moment). I realize deck heights will vary among manufacturers, but has anyone had issues getting on a trailer with a 2' beavertail? What length ramps did you have? Most of the trailers I've seen come with 5' ramps. Just want to make sure I don't buy a trailer and can't get my car on it.
My car is lowered (like 13" H to F at the moment). I realize deck heights will vary among manufacturers, but has anyone had issues getting on a trailer with a 2' beavertail? What length ramps did you have? Most of the trailers I've seen come with 5' ramps. Just want to make sure I don't buy a trailer and can't get my car on it.
A couple things I would keep in mind. If you have the budget, look for removable fenders as it is a giant pain to get in/out. If it comes with the standard 5’ ramps, I would suggest looking to get longer ones. I looked into it and you can get 8ft aluminum ramps for around $250-300 I believe (plus half the weight).
I bought a brand new open car 16ft hauler in 2017 for 1800. I sold it a year later for $1750. Don’t over spend on a used trailer, you can find them pretty cheap brand new and upgrade. I looked for 4 months before I found most used were overpriced and decided to go new. Only regret is I wished mine had removable/flip down fenders, but a standard 16’ car with 2ft beaver trailer works perfect for our cars.
09-21-2018, 05:40 AM
#3
I had a 16’ open trailer for a year before I sold it and went with an enclosed trailer ( I don’t have side windows in my car as it is a dedicated track car ). It had 2ft beaver tail and was the perfect trailer as I could tow it with my suv at the time. It had 5ft Ramps, which worked, but would just barely touch the front bumper at times depending on where it was unloaded.
A couple things I would keep in mind. If you have the budget, look for removable fenders as it is a giant pain to get in/out. If it comes with the standard 5’ ramps, I would suggest looking to get longer ones. I looked into it and you can get 8ft aluminum ramps for around $250-300 I believe (plus half the weight).
I bought a brand new open car 16ft hauler in 2017 for 1800. I sold it a year later for $1750. Don’t over spend on a used trailer, you can find them pretty cheap brand new and upgrade. I looked for 4 months before I found most used were overpriced and decided to go new. Only regret is I wished mine had removable/flip down fenders, but a standard 16’ car with 2ft beaver trailer works perfect for our cars.
09-21-2018, 09:34 AM
#5
THe single biggest factor will be splitter. Ride height matters less. That being said you will likely need some wood and customize your own approach ramps. It also matters if you raise the rear of the tow vehicle. I use to back my truck rears onto wood blocks when I had a really low civic with splitter. Pay attention to how the ramps meet the trailer. Many rest onto the surface of the trailer (ideal). I had a steel big Tex that the ramps pulled out. They were 1.5 inches down from surface of trailer. Doesn’t sound bad for tires but it creates havoc with the splitter
09-21-2018, 11:25 AM
#6
THe single biggest factor will be splitter. Ride height matters less. That being said you will likely need some wood and customize your own approach ramps. It also matters if you raise the rear of the tow vehicle. I use to back my truck rears onto wood blocks when I had a really low civic with splitter. Pay attention to how the ramps meet the trailer. Many rest onto the surface of the trailer (ideal). I had a steel big Tex that the ramps pulled out. They were 1.5 inches down from surface of trailer. Doesn’t sound bad for tires but it creates havoc with the splitter
09-21-2018, 12:37 PM
#7
An enclosed trailer offers workspace along with just a place to haul the car (and tires). Nice place for a workbench, tools, etc. Heck, you can sleep in it if necessary. 
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
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10-03-2018, 04:07 AM
#8
Quick update: found a used trailer for a good price and picked it up. 2015 Sure-Trac 18' wood deck with 2 foot beavertail. The only thing I'm not crazy about is that the fender isn't removeable. If it becomes too much of a hassle, I think I can mod the fender to be removable. I saved like $1400 over the price of a new one, so I'm happy with it. Now I just need a toolbox and a spare tire.
Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for all the help!
10-03-2018, 09:23 AM
#9
Quick update: found a used trailer for a good price and picked it up. 2015 Sure-Trac 18' wood deck with 2 foot beavertail. The only thing I'm not crazy about is that the fender isn't removeable. If it becomes too much of a hassle, I think I can mod the fender to be removable. I saved like $1400 over the price of a new one, so I'm happy with it. Now I just need a toolbox and a spare tire.
Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for all the help!
I screwed down a extra 2x12 on my wood deck, aligned under the left wheels of the car, to make the door clear the fender.
10-03-2018, 11:11 AM
#10
The trailer I have been using this years is a co-workers aluminum car trailer. No beavertail, 6' ramps and it loads with no extra ramps, boards, etc. My car is in STR form to give you an idea, so lowered roughly an inch. This setup works great.
I previously rented an aluminum car trailer that had a tilt bed and 4' ramp. It sucked ... I still had to use boards and crap to load without dragging the front bumper. The current trailer I have used is MUCH better.
In either case, without removable fenders there would be zero chance of loading and rolling the windows up unless I placed boards to park the car on so it was taller.. No way I can reach the ignition switch otherwise (trust me, I tried when I forgot and put the fender back on the trailer before rolling the other window up on the car).
I previously rented an aluminum car trailer that had a tilt bed and 4' ramp. It sucked ... I still had to use boards and crap to load without dragging the front bumper. The current trailer I have used is MUCH better.
In either case, without removable fenders there would be zero chance of loading and rolling the windows up unless I placed boards to park the car on so it was taller.. No way I can reach the ignition switch otherwise (trust me, I tried when I forgot and put the fender back on the trailer before rolling the other window up on the car).
