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I dunno, I posted a video up there. I initially thought I tore the exhaust since it sounded like an exhaust leak with no vibration or change in power delivery. I pulled the back half off the diff before I put it into the car and everything looked right to me. I put 100 miles or so on it before the event and everything sounded normal.
Lesson learned to pay the extra for a new build versus used. Again, no one to blame but myself. Actual OSG is fine, case and gears are destroyed, so it wasn't a total loss.
I dunno, I posted a video up there. I initially thought I tore the exhaust since it sounded like an exhaust leak with no vibration or change in power delivery. I pulled the back half off the diff before I put it into the car and everything looked right to me. I put 100 miles or so on it before the event and everything sounded normal.
Lesson learned to pay the extra for a new build versus used. Again, no one to blame but myself. Actual OSG is fine, case and gears are destroyed, so it wasn't a total loss.
The hysteresis in the suspension is probably the cause of your diff breaking. There isn't enough control there and you can hear the engine vary a bit as the car bounces up and down as it loads/unloads. Check @0:39-0:40 you can hear the rear unload, spin, catch then blow. Looking at the video you can see the car hop a little bit attacking curbs, etc.
So I went to install the diff as a drop in. I set backlash to .0025 and went to check gear mesh and this is what I got. I'm certain this is probably not usable so I will tear the whole thing apart. If what I am reading is correct I need to change the shim size between the pinion gear and bearing? Does this mean I need to press the bearing off every time to change shims?
Also, how tight do the side screws need to be? Information on that wasn't super clear.
Once this is in and tested I'll try to do an in depth review on what changes you can expect.
Thanks again!
Maniac
Yup, looks like your pinion crush tube is beginning to start its self destruction mode by pulling the pinion away from the ring gear. When you pull the pinion check the underside to make sure there are not cracks. Maybe get it checked out by a machine shop to have them put the special dye to check for micro cracks.
Diff is together and back in the car. The hardest part was putting 500 miles on it when there's very little to do. I haven't had a chance to go full send at an event yet but I have performed some spirited driving. My initial response so far is this.....
This will be the first modification I do from now on. I had no idea how much I have been fighting this helical stock diff. The abrupt but correctable oversteer from throttle lift is gone. The car can literally dive bomb a corner. Throttle oversteer on exit is gone. You will have some rotation but it is from the diff locking up and driving the car with the outside tire. The best way to exit the corner is to throttle on before apex and let it lock and sling you out of the corner for you.
Once I have some seat time on course I'll try to get a video of it in action. I have a few videos from last year to use as a comparison to show where the differences are.
Even if you don't race, go buy this diff. Driving at the limit is exhilarating now!
