Its more to do with peoples cool down habits (or lack thereof) that leads to cracking rotors faster than others. But again, it will happen with any pad that can put that that much heat into the rotors. I think people hear about Carbotechs cracking rotors more simply because so many people use carbotechs compared to other pads on the S2000... especially newer drivers who don't yet fully understand the importance of proper cool down.

 

Not to go off topic, but what do you guys consider proper cool down of the brakes. Typically I do one cool down lap then go back to the paddock.

 

Do that cool-down lap (as fast as possible without braking) but then expect to spend another 5-10 minutes coasting around the paddock at a safe speed before you park.

Also, bring spare rotors and the tools/mechanic gloves you need to swap them. Consider them a consumable part on the S2000.

XP10/8 works fine on the street for your usage, doesn't eat wheel finishes, is easy to find, and has good balance on track. They are what I would start with. 949Racing sells them pre-bedded and ready to rock.

 

How can a brake pad possibly be "pre-bedded" unless you are buying pads and rotors as a set that have been bedded in on a brake dyno?

I would recommend Project µ Club Racers. Dramatically less dust than the Carbotechs and better feel in my opinion. Don't worry about bias.

 

If you need to ask, START with the Carbotech XP10/8, but don't plan on staying with them forever. They're a great starter pad, but pads like like women... you're gonna keep sampling until you find the keeper.

 

The surface is scorched to remove the excess binders.

 

With a 205 / 225 tire size I don't think I'd stagger brake pad compound. If you go too aggressive of a pad on a skinny front tire, you may wind up getting into the ABS too early just by locking the fronts. Maybe an XP8 all around or XP10.

When cooling down with stock rotors, I'll do the typical cool down. But after I park it in paddock, I'll roll it forward a few inches every 5-10 minutes so that the part of the rotor that the caliper covers doesn't stay in the same place and crack at the interface of cold rotor to hot rotor.

 

So if a track organization does a white flag/checker flag. I would usually run a very slow lap last lap avoiding breaking as much as possible then when I get in the pits, i'll roll around continuously for a couple of minutes.

On centric rotors I started popping rotors after meeting psychoazn and getting pointers from him !

I then switched to Autozone Duralast rotors which didn't pop quite as often as centric rotors, but I have cracked one or two but Autozone has a 2 yr no questions asked policy so I would just swap them in an out. Lol always carry a spare rotor in your trunk!

I've been on Project Mu Club Racer pads & ducting for about 3 trackdays so far and I've been happy, no cracking so far!

 

That would be awesome if say a company like project mu could pre bed a set of matched rotors and pads and all you had to do was slap them on and go fast. I hate "bedding" brakes on the street as it makes me feel like an a-hole and don't want the unnecessary burden of a ticket, insurance hikes and court dates.

 

Carbotech will sell pre-bedded pads. Not much needed to get a transfer layer onto the rotors.