This, i want to rotate. Also, I'd prefer to have the same track width front and rear - i especially don't want a narrower rear track width. Additionally, I don't want to run spacers because they're mickey mouse - added wear and tear on hubs/bearings. DRM spacers - i wouldn't dare run them on track (on the street, fine).

ARP studs are costly to install due to having to disassemble the whole hub/bearing assembly and thus also replace them in the process since damaging them is also very likely. Also, even after doing ARP studs and normal DRS spacers, there's still the issue of added stress on hubs/bearings from running spacers. That's just me, though.

Option 3 would actually fit a number of us quite well. People can get 17x10 +50 F / 17x10 +70 R. OR 17x10 +50 square OR 17x10 +70 square. Since the wheel is being made, i'm assuming the option to buy in whatever combination of F+R would exist.

 

Im in for 17x10 +48-50. As others have said the +52 949 made contacted the lower control arm at full lock and I don't want to have to deal with that.

Bullwings- Im completely with you man, you've made great points on this thread, the other SOS thread, the 17x10 nt03/rp03 thread, and Im sure a few other people who have gotten us excited for a 17x10 and then completely fall through. Hopefully 949 will have their new wheel out this year but I hate the waiting game... I just don't understand how they are taking so long when there is such a demand. People are buying and selling used 949s for as much as they cost new for crying out loud. Also, last time I called 949 (last Nov) he said BBK clearance wasn't a priority anymore since most track guys don't have one. Well I have a stoptech BBK and it seems like a lot of other guys have gotten a BBK within the last year or so, so I could see the wheel not even fitting which would really suck.

 

Option 3 seems really weird to me, wouldn't the front have a wider track than the rear?

 

I would be interested in a 17x10 +50-55ish front and 17x10 +60-70 rear. Once you get into really wide wheels, the front and rear will want different offsets depending on the tire you want to run. In the front, too much offset will cause interference at full lock, too little offset will require you to flare the fenders. The rear has more backspacing/room to play with, but like a higher offset to keep the tires off the fender when compared to the front. Many of us running the S2000 in BSP have custom ordered wheels to barely fit. You will need more offset in the rear than front. In general, the measurements are in the 60-70mm range rear and 55-65mm front. Do some test fitting for yourselves. I can also provide some of my own (and others) measurements. More than likely you will need to roll the front fenders. Some will be able to clear the rears with a smaller tire.

My custom ordered CCWs are 18x10.5 front, 7.5" backspacing, 2" lip. 18x11 rear 8.25" backspacing rear. Using the conversion tool on CCWs website, the front will be around 45mm offset and the rear around 57mm. Both front and rear fender will need to be aggressively rolled and the fronts more flared. Inside, the wheels will be really, really close on clearance/back spacing and may have minor rubbing at full lock (with 285/30/18 and 295/30/18 Hoosiers front, 315/30/18 rear). 17" wheels would be touching the arms at these widths and offsets.

Best of luck getting this together! So far all the attempts at larger wheels has proved unsuccessful outside the expensive custom wheel route.

-Marc

 

Why would you want a reduced track width in the rear? I think most people also like the benefit of being able to rotate non-staggered wheels and tires. Also, as mentioned before if the front wheels are 17x10, they will have to be lower that +52 or they will contact the LCA and most people wanting to run a wheel wider than 9.5" are willing to roll/pull/flare or whatever they need to clear.

 

bring back the Buddy Club QF

 

I don't... Even at my measurements, the rear sticks out more than the front. Stock, the offsets are similar in difference. As previously posted, I use a larger tire on the rear as well. Take a tape measure out to your car and compare front to rear. With the 11" wheel mentioned above, I'm still increasing my track width. Even more when you add for camber. The issue with these cars will always be the ability to tuck the tire behind the fender vs how much fender work you want to get into. The front end of this car has waaay more front grip than I need. Many use massive front sway bars to balance that out.

Sure, but we are at the max. There is very little room to play with compared to using a 9" wheel at 60mm offset. Measurements have to be exact and those exact measurements make the front and rear wheel requirements different. I consulted with many others and measured everything multiple time before making my decision. To get the maximum width wheel/tire, you will have to get creative. I would have gone 11.5" in the back if it were possible with my setup. Someone mentioned before running a spacer on the front which would allow you to use a wheel with a higher offset for the rear and space it out on the front (usually 10-15mm). Rebuilding the hub is a pain, but almost necessary at this level. If you are just into cosmetics, that is another discussion I'm not part of.

You should have more room than that, but my measurements were for an 18" wheel. Some (actually many I know) would rather leave the fenders alone and have something easy to work with. These wheels would have a better chance at selling if they had proper fitment with larger tires rather than the ability to rotate. The others could always buy 4 of the front or rear...


-Marc

 

I was saying a reduced track width with the 17x10 offsets that you were recommending, not your staggered CCWs.

And yes in a perfect world it would be nice if you could fit wider wheels without having to modify fenders, but you do and theres not really a way to get around it. My ideal setup is a a 255/40 on a 17x10 front and rear which is a pretty popular setup so I have no concerns about resale. My car is purely focused to go fast around a track so this discussion has absolutely nothing to do with cosmetics.

All Im saying is that if you're serious enough to want more than a 17x9 then you should expect to have to modify your fenders to fit the wider wheels (or buy wider front fenders), especially if you plan on running wider tires with wider wheels. Sure you could use a 17x10 +60 up front but don't expect to be able to turn the wheel too far.

 

Exactly! Also, whats the point of non staggered wheels and tires if you cant rotate because of offsets?

 

doesn't 949 have a 17x10 option?