Question for fellow Volk CE-28N Owners
When I purchased my new 17" CE-28N wheels they came with a plastic insert that goes inside each of the wheels to center them onto the Hubs. When I first saw this I was pretty pissed that wheels of this quality and cost would come with a cheesy piece of plastic to be used at such a critical location. Have any of you ran into issues with these pieces of plastic causing wheel vibrations at speed due to their less then perfect fitment and potential for wear? Does any one else have an issue with the use of plastic for this component? Are there any higher quality alternatives on the market that can be used in their place?
This question has been asked because I think I feel a slight wobble at certain higher speeds but I can't really put my finger on it. I'm still not convinced that it's just me feeling every texture of the road surface.
On my last car I would get this sensation if I didn't mount the wheel "PERFECTLY STRIGHT" back on the car. After purchasing a set of Hub Centric H&R wheel spacers (The kind with a mounting lip on them) the issue never re-occurred. They made it idiot proof (that's me) when it came to re-mounting the wheels on the car.
PS..Please don't mention getting my wheels re-balanced / Tire Manufacturing Defects / Bent Hubs or Bent Volks..Thanks for any other pertinent info you can provide...
This question has been asked because I think I feel a slight wobble at certain higher speeds but I can't really put my finger on it. I'm still not convinced that it's just me feeling every texture of the road surface.
On my last car I would get this sensation if I didn't mount the wheel "PERFECTLY STRIGHT" back on the car. After purchasing a set of Hub Centric H&R wheel spacers (The kind with a mounting lip on them) the issue never re-occurred. They made it idiot proof (that's me) when it came to re-mounting the wheels on the car.
PS..Please don't mention getting my wheels re-balanced / Tire Manufacturing Defects / Bent Hubs or Bent Volks..Thanks for any other pertinent info you can provide...
I haven't ever had a problem with or without hubcentric rings. Plastic shouldn't be the problem. If you're still concerned you could always take the piece to a competent machine shop and have them reproduced in aluminum. Shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.
Mine have not melted or deformed. The rings are not strictly necessary for the S2000 because the wheels are lug centric (the lugs line up the wheels not the hub). The CE28N is not an S2000 specific wheel and the center holes are the same size front/rear so unlike stock wheels you can run them reversed or even 9" all around. Once the lug nuts are tightened they support the entire load. The rings just fill the gap but do nothing. If your wheel is wobbling then you didn't put it on right. Make sure the wheel sits tight to the rotor all around with no gap before tightening. If you didn't get it on straight then it doesn't matter if you torque them properly. The rings make the alignment more idiot-resistant but not idiot proof. You still need to check, twice.
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Actually i would recommend against using the rings for the follwing reason...
The rings are not part of the wheel. They are placed in the wheel or on the hub and then the wheel is mounted. Most often tho the rings are placed in the wheel and then the wheel is mounted.
Thats all fine and good the first time the wheels are mounted.
However, If the wheels are ever rotated then problems can occur. Big problems. Wheels falling off while driving type problems.
When the wheels are pulled off there is a chance the ring will stay on the hub. If a wheel from another position is placed on that hub and that wheel contains a ring in its bore then you have just doubled up on the rings for that hub.
The big problem comes in here.
The bore that the rings fit into in the wheel cant fit both rings. It can only fit about 1.5 rings. That 0.5 ring width prevents the wheel from sitting flush against the hub.
If you then tighten up one lugnut just a little bit it will wedge that side of the wheel against the hub and force the other side away from the hub fulcum style.
If you then thighten all the lug nuts up in that position then the wheel will eventually fall off. Sooner rather than later.
I've seen this first hand with Aluminum rings and would image the same problem arises with plastic rings tho possibly to a lesser extent.
My suggestion is to throw away the rings and never think about them again. You dont need them for most, if not all, rims made for the S2K.
The S2K hubs are meant for Lug centric rims.
Sorry for the long post, Just a personal perspective from someone with experience in the matter.
The rings are not part of the wheel. They are placed in the wheel or on the hub and then the wheel is mounted. Most often tho the rings are placed in the wheel and then the wheel is mounted.
Thats all fine and good the first time the wheels are mounted.
However, If the wheels are ever rotated then problems can occur. Big problems. Wheels falling off while driving type problems.
When the wheels are pulled off there is a chance the ring will stay on the hub. If a wheel from another position is placed on that hub and that wheel contains a ring in its bore then you have just doubled up on the rings for that hub.
The big problem comes in here.
The bore that the rings fit into in the wheel cant fit both rings. It can only fit about 1.5 rings. That 0.5 ring width prevents the wheel from sitting flush against the hub.
If you then tighten up one lugnut just a little bit it will wedge that side of the wheel against the hub and force the other side away from the hub fulcum style.
If you then thighten all the lug nuts up in that position then the wheel will eventually fall off. Sooner rather than later.
I've seen this first hand with Aluminum rings and would image the same problem arises with plastic rings tho possibly to a lesser extent.
My suggestion is to throw away the rings and never think about them again. You dont need them for most, if not all, rims made for the S2K.
The S2K hubs are meant for Lug centric rims.
Sorry for the long post, Just a personal perspective from someone with experience in the matter.
Dave is right, as always.
I've never used the rings in the 4+ years of tracking CE28N's. To make sure they are aligned/seated properly, I always lightly tighten the first two lugs (opposing ones) so they center on the tapered lugs properly, then you can tighten the other three more fully, then come back to tighten the first two. Then lower the car and final torque to spec.
I've never used the rings in the 4+ years of tracking CE28N's. To make sure they are aligned/seated properly, I always lightly tighten the first two lugs (opposing ones) so they center on the tapered lugs properly, then you can tighten the other three more fully, then come back to tighten the first two. Then lower the car and final torque to spec.
Man I can 2nd Daves advice. With different wheels tho. I pulled a wheel and the ring stayed on. I put on an oem wheel and drove off. I crushed the ring trying to torque the wheel down. I nearly lost the wheel as the ring deformed its shape and my wheel loosened itself. And if someone else does you wheels they will almost surely screw it all up. Be extra careful with your wheels as the consequences can be disastorous and expensive.




