Questions on adjustable endlinks
I am getting my AP2 corner weighted and would appreciate if I could get some input on these questions on adjustable endlinks.
1. Will I require the adjustable endlinks for both front and rear sway bars? or will the front ones suffice?
2. Are there any ready-made ones available out there? Just want to see if there are any other options than the Mcmaster one.
3. I have stock sway bars on currently. If I do upgrade my front and rear sway bars later on, will the adjustable endlinks still work?
Thanks.
1. Will I require the adjustable endlinks for both front and rear sway bars? or will the front ones suffice?
2. Are there any ready-made ones available out there? Just want to see if there are any other options than the Mcmaster one.
3. I have stock sway bars on currently. If I do upgrade my front and rear sway bars later on, will the adjustable endlinks still work?
Thanks.
1. Yes
2. Yes, you can make up your own in most any quaility level you could ever want. Just depends on how much you want to spend. Aurora is one of the best:
http://www.aurorabearing.com/products/comm...fault.html#inch
3. depends if the hole size in the bar you end up with is the same size as the hole in the oem bar. You can use rod ends with studs or ones that use bolts. If you use the rod ends with studs you will have more degrees of misalignment. ( that's a good thing)
Make sure when you corner weigh the car that you disconnect the sways front and rear before you corner weigh.
** You only need to disconnect one side of each.
** You really only need one set of adjustable end links. One side on the front and one side on the rear. What you are doing is removing any tension on the sway bar when the car in neutral or level. You only need an adjustable link on one side to do this.
** When you reconnect the sway bars leave the car on the cornerweight scales slide under the car and adjust the adjustable link side until the bolt or stud aligns with the hole in the lower a arm without any tension/preload. Slide it in the hole put the nut on and torque it.
The easiest way to do this is on an alignment rack that the car is driven up on sitting on its tires not a rack that lifts the car by the frame.
You just want the car level and full normal weight on the tires.
If you have access to the right equipment you can take the OEM link cut it in the center then right thread one side and left thread the other put a left and right threaded union with lock nuts in the middle and you now have custom adjustable oem end links.
Once again you only need to do one end on each bar.
2. Yes, you can make up your own in most any quaility level you could ever want. Just depends on how much you want to spend. Aurora is one of the best:
http://www.aurorabearing.com/products/comm...fault.html#inch
3. depends if the hole size in the bar you end up with is the same size as the hole in the oem bar. You can use rod ends with studs or ones that use bolts. If you use the rod ends with studs you will have more degrees of misalignment. ( that's a good thing)
Make sure when you corner weigh the car that you disconnect the sways front and rear before you corner weigh.
** You only need to disconnect one side of each.
** You really only need one set of adjustable end links. One side on the front and one side on the rear. What you are doing is removing any tension on the sway bar when the car in neutral or level. You only need an adjustable link on one side to do this.
** When you reconnect the sway bars leave the car on the cornerweight scales slide under the car and adjust the adjustable link side until the bolt or stud aligns with the hole in the lower a arm without any tension/preload. Slide it in the hole put the nut on and torque it.
The easiest way to do this is on an alignment rack that the car is driven up on sitting on its tires not a rack that lifts the car by the frame.
You just want the car level and full normal weight on the tires.
If you have access to the right equipment you can take the OEM link cut it in the center then right thread one side and left thread the other put a left and right threaded union with lock nuts in the middle and you now have custom adjustable oem end links.
Once again you only need to do one end on each bar.
The answer depends on why you need/want adjustable endlinks. If you need them because the endlinks you have are not the right size/shape to install your swaybar after lowering or installing a different bar, then you need them on both sides for each bar that does not work with the existing endlinks.
If you need to relieve preload, then you need one adjustable link per bar. Before you spend the money though, check to see if the last endlink feels loose in the mounting hole with the nut loose and the car sitting flat on the ground (or a lift that supports the wheels) with the suspension settled. If it is loose, then you can just tighten the nut and you won't have pre-load. If you want to be super precise about it, perform that check with the driver's weight in the driver's seat and everything else in race configuration.
If you need to relieve preload, then you need one adjustable link per bar. Before you spend the money though, check to see if the last endlink feels loose in the mounting hole with the nut loose and the car sitting flat on the ground (or a lift that supports the wheels) with the suspension settled. If it is loose, then you can just tighten the nut and you won't have pre-load. If you want to be super precise about it, perform that check with the driver's weight in the driver's seat and everything else in race configuration.
Are the front and rear endlinks different in length and does this seem like a good deal?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sid=p2759.l1259
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sid=p2759.l1259
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