If by "hubcap" you mean the hub that holds the studs, that is pressed in and the machine shop will be pressing that out so they can get to the studs. I don't know how removing the knuckle will effect the alignment - I would have it checked though.

Out of curiousity, how did you get the ball joints out of the knuckle?

 

Any full-service auto shop can do bearings, it's a pretty normal service operation. Your dealer service guy must be new He's not only replaced studs but I'm sure broken a few with an impact wrench too. I love the auto business

Your alignment will probably be off by a hair but so long as you don't change the concentric settings it will be minor and not a problem. High-flash solvent means Xylene (3M bug, tar and adhesive remover) or even acetone. A solvent that evaporates quickly (high-flash). A low-flash solvent would be something like oil solvents (goo gone, etc.). The service shop will likely do this for you.

 

[QUOTE=Yellow Streak,Aug 10 2005, 07:53 AM] If by "hubcap" you mean the hub that holds the studs, that is pressed in and the machine shop will be pressing that out so they can get to the studs.

 

I mean the bolts that you turn to change the alignment. No, the bearing doesn't but it's the same press ie if they do bearing they have the equipment to do the hub.

 

I need help guys! I put everything back together, and now the driver's side wheel, the one where I got a new stud, and bearing put in, is totally unbalanced. When the car is moving, it looks like the wheel is about to fall off, very wobbly. I tested this with 2 different wheels, so it's not that the wheel is bent.

Now, could it be:

a.) Me messing up somewhere when putting the knuckle back in

b.) The bearing guy messing up when he pressed in a new bearing, it was an NSK bearing, he said it fits my car, and I couldn't find out the exact make of the S2000 bearing so I went with what he said

c.) Or could it be uneven pad deposits on the rotor...


What do you think guys? I need help fast!! TIA

Sri

 

No idea, but if it "looks" like the wheel is about to fall off, then you can rule out c.).

I'd put the car on stands and see how wheel rotates freely. If nothing there I'd then jack up that wheel (so it's loaded) and triple check to see if everything like ball joints etc. is bolted and torqued up properly.

 

I rotated the wheel by hand with the car on stands, and you can see a slight wobble. So, I think I'm going to reinstall the knuckle . If it was a bearing problem, it would be audible right? Because, this doesn't make any noise.

 

I don't know much about this, but, with wheel off the ground, I'd hold the wheel and try to rock it (top-bottom, side-to-side etc)to see if the bearings are loose in any way (worn bearings will have play) or if anything else is loose. If the bearings are good, then it seems that somehow the bearings/hub weren't pressed in in the proper alignment or maybe all the way (don't know if this is possible if the bearings are the wrong size as you said they were not OEM). I'm guessing here.

 

I have never taken an S2K spindle apart, but I would guess it's one of 3 things:

1: The bearing was not pressed on properly (Could have happened to either the race or cup). That could mean it was not pressed all the way down to the shoulder on the spindle, or simply cocked on the spindle shaft. Either one of these would lead to the mechanic tightening the spindle to spec and releasing the car. Driving the car, however, would allow heat buildup, vibration, and bump forces to move the bearing element. You will see exactly the symptoms you explain, like there is an incredible amount of bearing play.

2: If there is a crush sleeve, and the mechanic replaced it, he may have tightened the spindle nut to specs without first crushing the sleeve. Again, this will feel like a very loose bearing.

3: Depending on how the mechanic pressed the studs in, and if they have a larger splined section than stock, he may have pushed them in hard enough to warp, bend, or deform your wheel mounting flange on the spindle. The bearing will not feel loose, you should not be able to rock the wheel with this cause, but the wheel will spin with a wobble.

Might want to have these things looked at. I have seen all of the above accomplished on various cars.

-Mike

 

Thanks MikeC for the info.

Well, after taking off the calipers, examining every bolt around the hub, and checking for play, I've concluded it has to be the bearing. There isn't really any play in the hub, and it might be my eyes fooling me, but it looks like the hub is slightly bent, or not pressed into the shaft straight.

When I drive the car, you can feel a subtle shake in the steering wheel, and just as a sanity check, I compared the wobble to the other wheels and it is defenitely more.

So, now I guess I'm going to have to take the knuckle off again, and take it back to the bearing shop. What should I say? You f**ked something up? I hope I don't have to "prove" he did something wrong.


Hopefully I can join you guys on the track Sunday now, tomorrow is defenitely a no.


Sri