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I'm in the market for a track car right now, it won't be a track only car, but it will be a second car. The S2000 is one of the car I'm considering. So I was hoping to get some input as to whats required to make one track ready. I'm not looking for advise on how to make it be the fastest thing around the track, just what to do or not to do it keep it reliable with track use.
Is the stock radiator up to the task?
Do the s2k's have oil coolers stock? If so, is it good enough? If not, does it need one?
I know some cars have fuel starvation issues how is the the s2k in this regard?
What about the oil pan? Is an aftermarket pan or a baffle drop in required?
How does the tranny/diff/clutch hold up?
How do the brakes hold up? Is fluid/lines/race pads enough? I don't ever plan on going big power, just some bolt on's and a tune. But I want brakes that can last a 20-30 min session with a fast driver. not claiming to be a pro here, but I'd like room to grow without this being too much of an issue.
S2k's have integrated roll bars, is that good enough for most clubs or as an additional roll bar a requirement for most clubs (if someone local to the NW, particularly WA can chime in on this that be great)
Anything else random that I should know?
If I go the s2k route, I'm planning on getting an 06+ for ease of tuning with Hondata Flashpro and not having to worry about retrofitting all the crap for a kpro.
I plan on starting out with a stock car, stock size autox class tires (prolly RE71R), testpipe so I don't melt the cat, and a tune. and brakes obviously. and then modify the car from there as I track it and see what it needs.
The biggest contender for another track car for me is an Evo 8/9.
and a pic of me in action in my old track car for bonus points
Clutch line has a release delay valve that can cause some slip. You can modify it and remove the little pill thing in the line, or use an AP1 slave cylinder. Diff holds up, but an OS Giken performs much better. I recommend going with a stronger clutch and AP1 flywheel (http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...rivetrain.aspx)
Stock brakes and track pads will result in cracked rotors anywhere between 2-6 track events depending on the track and how aggressive you are and you'll chew through a set of pads in 2-4 track days also. Do yourself a favor and just upgrade to the StopTechs ( http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ont-break.aspx). I'm still on the original set of StopTech street pads after some 25k miles of street use, more than a half dozen track days, something like 100 auto-x runs. Still like 35% pad life left. Yes, high upfront cost, but save on the backend in pads and rotor wear. From a safety point of view, the rotor is never going to crack like the stock rotors. And change out the stock brake lines regardless to SS lines for safety as old stock lines on any car are prone to failing. Even SS lines should be considered a maintenance item if the car is tracked extensively. And use brake ducts to extend brake system life.
Do yourself a favor and just upgrade to the StopTechs ( http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...ont-break.aspx). I'm still on the original set of StopTech street pads after some 25k miles of street use, more than a half dozen track days, something like 100 auto-x runs. Still like 35% pad life left.
all on the same pads or do you switch out to race pads for the track?
so up front I'm really looking at oil cooler and a BBK (thought I think I'm partial to Essex Part's AP kit) to get going.
270 is high.. F22's really run that much hotter than K20's?
yup. with a good synthetic oil it will be fine. just change it often since it will sheer pretty quick at those temps.
you dont have to have a BBK either. you wont stop any faster. it will just keep you from having to deal with cracking rotors. Ducts with a agressive pad and autozone blanks works good enough for me. crack one ever 4-6 days on track.
A baffled pan is a good idea if your going to run R-comps. I would avoid the canton pan as it seems to make the oil run hotter. I just put a moroso baffle in and have not had any issues yet. its a weld in with trap doors.
The Oem roll hoops will be good for most orgs but a roll bar is never a bad idea. unless your like 5'5 your not going to pass a broomstick test.
Diff, tranny, clutch hold up well. the slip that spdrcr is talking about is augmented more by the heavy flywheel that is in the ap2's. i have a act prolight with the delay valve still in the car and have no delay what so ever. removing the delay valve will not do much besides give you a headach to remove.
If you want a track car that wont take much effort to be reliable, be quick, and rewarding to drive fast get one of these. any boosted car will requre more work and money to be reliable on track.
yup. with a good synthetic oil it will be fine. just change it often since it will sheer pretty quick at those temps.
you dont have to have a BBK either. you wont stop any faster. it will just keep you from having to deal with cracking rotors. Ducts with a agressive pad and autozone blanks works good enough for me. crack one ever 4-6 days on track.
A baffled pan is a good idea if your going to run R-comps. I would avoid the canton pan as it seems to make the oil run hotter. I just put a moroso baffle in and have not had any issues yet. its a weld in with trap doors.
The Oem roll hoops will be good for most orgs but a roll bar is never a bad idea. unless your like 5'5 your not going to pass a broomstick test.
Diff, tranny, clutch hold up well. the slip that spdrcr is talking about is augmented more by the heavy flywheel that is in the ap2's. i have a act prolight with the delay valve still in the car and have no delay what so ever. removing the delay valve will not do much besides give you a headach to remove.
If you want a track car that wont take much effort to be reliable, be quick, and rewarding to drive fast get one of these. any boosted car will requre more work and money to be reliable on track.
so you don't have an oil cooler? do you have a lot of track miles on your car like this?
If you're cracking rotors every 4-6 events a BBK might be worth it... I can always start out with pads and see how it goes...
how often do clubs actually do the broom stick test? I'm 6'1 and like to sit fairly straight up for track driving, and a proper seat is on my short list for any car I get.
generally yes, NA is easier to maintain for the track. But if I get the evo, my track tune will only be about 250-280 whp, thats way understressed for an evo. only thing it really needs is pads and lines for track duty, and regular fluid changes for the driveline. With what I'm learning here its looking like the Evo is prolly a better choice...
Originally Posted by slowd16' timestamp='1444764198' post='23774434
yup. with a good synthetic oil it will be fine. just change it often since it will sheer pretty quick at those temps.
you dont have to have a BBK either. you wont stop any faster. it will just keep you from having to deal with cracking rotors. Ducts with a agressive pad and autozone blanks works good enough for me. crack one ever 4-6 days on track.
A baffled pan is a good idea if your going to run R-comps. I would avoid the canton pan as it seems to make the oil run hotter. I just put a moroso baffle in and have not had any issues yet. its a weld in with trap doors.
The Oem roll hoops will be good for most orgs but a roll bar is never a bad idea. unless your like 5'5 your not going to pass a broomstick test.
Diff, tranny, clutch hold up well. the slip that spdrcr is talking about is augmented more by the heavy flywheel that is in the ap2's. i have a act prolight with the delay valve still in the car and have no delay what so ever. removing the delay valve will not do much besides give you a headach to remove.
If you want a track car that wont take much effort to be reliable, be quick, and rewarding to drive fast get one of these. any boosted car will requre more work and money to be reliable on track.
so you don't have an oil cooler? do you have a lot of track miles on your car like this?
If you're cracking rotors every 4-6 events a BBK might be worth it... I can always start out with pads and see how it goes...
how often do clubs actually do the broom stick test? I'm 6'1 and like to sit fairly straight up for track driving, and a proper seat is on my short list for any car I get.
generally yes, NA is easier to maintain for the track. But if I get the evo, my track tune will only be about 250-280 whp, thats way understressed for an evo. only thing it really needs is pads and lines for track duty, and regular fluid changes for the driveline. With what I'm learning here its looking like the Evo is prolly a better choice...
No oil cooler, no aftermarket radiator. Both are on my list now. I have a oil cooler sitting in my garage that I need to install still. I feel like they are a good idea to have but not 100% needed.
5.5 year and been running probably about 10-15 days per year.
I run the car in TT now and don't want the points for a BBK. Also, it takes alot of $25 sets of rotors to balance out a $1500 BBK lol
how often do clubs actually do the broom stick test? I'm 6'1 and like to sit fairly straight up for track driving, and a proper seat is on my short list for any car I get.
If a proper seat is on your short list then a roll bar and harnesses should be right there with it.
Originally Posted by warmmilk' timestamp='1444764843' post='23774444
how often do clubs actually do the broom stick test? I'm 6'1 and like to sit fairly straight up for track driving, and a proper seat is on my short list for any car I get.
If a proper seat is on your short list then a roll bar and harnesses should be right there with it.
naw, harness also means a hans device. starts adding up fast... a proper seat will keep me in place in corners and an oem belt won't crack my skull open if I decide I wanna see a wall really close
Originally Posted by warmmilk' timestamp='1444764843' post='23774444
[quote name='slowd16' timestamp='1444764198' post='23774434']
yup. with a good synthetic oil it will be fine. just change it often since it will sheer pretty quick at those temps.
you dont have to have a BBK either. you wont stop any faster. it will just keep you from having to deal with cracking rotors. Ducts with a agressive pad and autozone blanks works good enough for me. crack one ever 4-6 days on track.
A baffled pan is a good idea if your going to run R-comps. I would avoid the canton pan as it seems to make the oil run hotter. I just put a moroso baffle in and have not had any issues yet. its a weld in with trap doors.
The Oem roll hoops will be good for most orgs but a roll bar is never a bad idea. unless your like 5'5 your not going to pass a broomstick test.
Diff, tranny, clutch hold up well. the slip that spdrcr is talking about is augmented more by the heavy flywheel that is in the ap2's. i have a act prolight with the delay valve still in the car and have no delay what so ever. removing the delay valve will not do much besides give you a headach to remove.
If you want a track car that wont take much effort to be reliable, be quick, and rewarding to drive fast get one of these. any boosted car will requre more work and money to be reliable on track.
so you don't have an oil cooler? do you have a lot of track miles on your car like this?
If you're cracking rotors every 4-6 events a BBK might be worth it... I can always start out with pads and see how it goes...
how often do clubs actually do the broom stick test? I'm 6'1 and like to sit fairly straight up for track driving, and a proper seat is on my short list for any car I get.
generally yes, NA is easier to maintain for the track. But if I get the evo, my track tune will only be about 250-280 whp, thats way understressed for an evo. only thing it really needs is pads and lines for track duty, and regular fluid changes for the driveline. With what I'm learning here its looking like the Evo is prolly a better choice...
No oil cooler, no aftermarket radiator. Both are on my list now. I have a oil cooler sitting in my garage that I need to install still. I feel like they are a good idea to have but not 100% needed.
5.5 year and been running probably about 10-15 days per year.
I run the car in TT now and don't want the points for a BBK. Also, it takes alot of $25 sets of rotors to balance out a $1500 BBK lol
[/quote]
ok, so really I just need the obvious pads/fluid/lines with an oil cooler on the short list... and I'm split between an s2k and evo again...
...
So I was hoping to get some input as to whats required to make one track ready.
...
Fresh rubber (RS3, Z2SS, RE71R), new brake fluid, new track pads, stainless steel brake lines. That is all you need to have a shit load of fun in a reliable Honda for a very reasonable price.
requirements for a track ready / reliable S2000
