smile

Would you resurface and reuse the rotors if they have hot spots on them? Or I maybe better off buying a new set of rotors.

esracer

I would like to know too, I have this problem also from hard braking when I autox.

payneinthe

I resurfaced my first set of rotors that I used to destroy a set of ferodo DS2500 pads with and continued to use them. 25k total miles, 8 track days, countless autocrosses before I finally destroyed them by running them w/ backing plates

jguerdat

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

Read the parts about "cementite"...

Triple-H

I love that little article...

And for me, when in doubt, replace the rotors, the Honda OEMs are rather cheap in the big picture.

esracer

Wow that was a great read thanks!

DJHohum

heat spots cannot be removed by resurfacing the rotors. the actual heat spots are hardened and cannot be removed by the brake rotor lathe.

just replace them.

RACER

The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.

The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye.

Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.

Complements of Carrol Smith

jguerdat

Ummm - that was a direct quote from the link I posted above...

Chris S2K

I'm trying to isolate the cause of my brake fade, and ran across this thread.

I'm on Carbotech XP 10/8 w/ATE Blue and my brakes faded on me earlier than usual last week and I'm wondering if that was because the pad deposits left on the rotors caused excess friction/heat? I bled my brakes afterward and found no air in the brake lines, so I'm puzzled as to why my brakes faded. I'm new to tracking and I'm getting faster and braking harder so I'm not sure if what the fade is attributed to...does brake fade only occur once air is introduced in the brake lines, or can it happen before the boiling point?

I should also point out that my brakes did pulse a bit. I will try garnet paper to clean up the rotors, but I'm still cautious about it and I'd hate to have brake problems prematurely ruin my next track day. Any other suggestions? Is it time to move on to Cobalts?